Kimono Work Miracles

How often do you wear a kimono? In my case, usually just once or twice a year. I have always loved the feeling of wearing a kimono, and wish I could wear them more often. Kyoto is a city with a long and proud history of kimono production. My grandfather actually worked in the industry as a kimono painter, continuing to paint well into his 80's. He painted two kimonos for me, both of which are the most treasured in my collection. Usually, when producing a kimono, each process is separated and carried out by a specialist. However, dye artist TAMAMURA Ei (‹Κ‘Ί™η), produces kimonos from designing to dyeing in his studio located in the Nishijin area, Kamigyo-ku Ward. Originally from Fukui Prefecture, Mr. Tamamura has over 25 years experience working in Kyoto's competitive kimono industry. As a dye specialist, he believes color combinations are of the utmost importance. When designing a kimono, he patiently lays out a series of colors over a multitude of patterns before coming up with the right match. Recently, fellow "Life in Kyoto" volunteer, Mrs. Fukuoka, and I had the privilege of visiting Mr. Tamamura for an interview to find out his thoughts on kimonos.

Mr. Tamamura, I have heard that you usually use synthetic dyes.
We are surrounded by a bewildering array of colors. Usually, we first recognize an object or shape by its color. This in turn stimulates a feeling and allows our imagination to roam. My job is to awaken unknown feelings by producing unique color combinations. I must carefully choose colors one by one, considering which colors are complimentary and which combinations will evoke what kind of feelings. In order to produce these color combinations, it is necessary to dye as many visible colors as possible. Natural dyes tend to reproduce sober colors, which can be limiting. That is why I always use synthetic dyes.
It is interesting that the different combinations of colors evoke different feelings. When you produce kimono, do you imagine something concrete, for example, flowers that you like, or shapes or some specific people?
No, I generally do not. The most important thing when I produce kimono is the combination of colors. Each single color has its own beauty. But when two colors are combined, sometimes their beauty is lost. Yet, on the other hand, sometimes their beauty is enhanced. Either way, the combinations produce many and varied appearances which arouse different feelings. I'm always testing different color combinations with the hope of creating the ideal blend, but this is a continuous process of trial and error. I believe the color combination produced by these consecutive trials is more attractive than any concrete shapes.
When I buy kimonos, I usually choose my favorite colors or patterns. But recently I have come to realize that the color that I like and the color that suits me are sometimes different. So now it is difficult for me to choose a kimono without a sense of doubt creeping into my mind. Since kimonos are expensive, I'm afraid to buy one incase later on I realize it does not really suit me.
You do not have to buy a kimono when you are young. In many cases young people do not know which kimono really suits them. Many probably regret purchasing one recommended by a shop clerk or somebody later on. You have to remember that your face changes with age. However, once a person reaches about 45 years old, I don't think their face changes that much. That is to say, one's character begins to appear on their face from around this age. My kimonos are designed more for mature or middle aged people rather than for young people. I think adult women who have lived their life as honestly as they can are really beautiful and elegant. Kimono can help to bring out attractiveness or personal magnetism from those adult women. Kimono has the amazing power to do so. Someday you will "meet" your kimono, the one that really suits you. It makes me so happy to see a person and my kimono finally meetc"true chemistry!"
By wearing kimono, feelings are stimulated and one's attractiveness is heightened. I also agree that ones face is important. Now while it may be a little too late for me, I will at least endeavor to live my life as honestly as I can. I just hope it will help me to become a woman who looks beautiful in kimono. Thank you very much.

After the interview, we were lucky enough to try on some kimonos that Mr.Tamamura personally handpicked. It was very exciting trying them on. We were surprised, or should I say shocked, at the results! We actually looked very elegant and even more beautiful than usual!!! Well, put it this way, we realized that wearing kimono does make a difference. But, there was just one problem - it doesn't hide one's character! I dream that someday I will "meet" my special kimono, one that seems to be made just for me.

K. Kimura


Fools Paradise

Rising 12,388 feet (3,776m) over the Kanto Plain, Mt. Fuji - or Fuji-san, is the highest and most sacrosanct mountain in the "land of the gods". In fact, climbing Mt. Fuji began as a religious practice, and even today, carries an underlying spiritual meaning for the many thousands drawn to her slopes each year. To witness a mesmerizing sunrise from atop her peak, and peer out over the dreamy clouds below is an awe-inspiring and unforgettable experience.
Perfectly symmetrical, Fuji-san is a composite volcano formed by three separate volcanoes. Appearing in her present form about 10,000 years ago, Fuji-san has remained dormant since the last eruption occurred in 1707. Five small lakes lie at her northern base, offering amazing inverted reflections of her in their still waters. With each season comes a different landscape. Ever changing yet unchanging, Fuji-san represents an unbroken chain between past and present. Efforts to express this enigma through art and literature can be traced as far back as the first inhabitants of the archipelago. Indeed, the mountain's name is of Ainu origin, meaning "everlasting life".
For both similar and varying reasons, people make the journey to Mt. Fuji.
In my case, it was back in 1992 while living in Japan for 12 months as a Rotary Exchange Student. My host dad at the time announced that there was more to see in Japan than just the gritty urban sprawl of Tokyo, not that it wasn't postcard picturesque or anything, but a trip to the inaka was called for. So, our bags packed we set out through the nightmare-ish Tokyo traffic of "Golden Week" in pursuit of nature, harmony and a chunky piece of Fuji-rock. My host parents, evidently not of the genki middle-aged hiking generation, preferred to cruise half way up the mountain to the 5th Station, the highest point attainable by car, from where we could meander around. Well, maybe it was not exactly an adventure, but the thought was there. After checking out the shrines, the souvenir shops and the view, my host parents headed back to the car. Stumbling around the black rocky terrain, I lingered for a while longer. As blustery 100 km/h gale winds torn at my clothes, I took one last look at the snow-capped peak above and thought to myself, "the next time I come here will be to watch the sunrise from the top".
And so it was with a sense of fate and a severe case of "Fuji-fever" I succumbed like many others before me, to the bizarre gravitational pull eastward. A pilgrimage to Fuji-cho, the top of Japan, now firmly fixed in my mind, I set about trying to convince my "pack-a-day" housemate to join me in this delirious adventure.
"Sure, it'll be a little shindoi, but come on, I saw you bound up those seemingly never ending stairs fronting Himeji Shrine, you weren't even puffed! And crowds, well, you've managed to survive the most ferocious of bargain sales, so to all intents and purposes, you're more prepared than I am!... (OK. what else can I say I thought)...not afraid of a challenge are you? Fervent? Maybe not, but he was in. The rest, as they say, is history - and here is a slice of it.
The official climbing season for Mt Fuji runs from July 1 through August 31. Having heard some pretty harrowing stories about making the trek in winter, and given our desire to actually "see" the sunrise, we decided that July 20th would be d-day. Late July is said to be when the weather on Mt. Fuji is at its most stable, but as a semi-believer in "Murphy's Law" - what can go wrong, (probably) will go wrong - I was preparing for the worst. The plan was for a night accent, departing about 10pm; we assumed this would give us ample time to reach the summit in time to see the 4:30 sunrise. We stocked up on essentials at a local convenience store: toilet paper, energy drinks, chocolate and onigiri - and in case of altitude sickness, 2 canisters of oxygen. After a hardy meal of hamburger steaks, our next stop was a nearby onsen. The canny ploy behind this was to loosen up the muscles in the warm water, followed by a power nap in the relaxation room down stairs.
Rejuvenated and ready to hit the slop, I cranked up the stereo and we sped off in search of the 5th Station (Gotemba Route), from where we were to begin our climb. The ascent is divided into ten (depending on route) official stages, marked by stations where - for a small fee - you can have a souvenir stamp burned into your hiking stick. Opting to forgo the long stamping lines we made a straight run for the top. To keep spirits high we also made a pact: the first one to say, "I'm tired" had to treat the other a meal of his choice!
We were less than 10 minutes into the hike before we made our first pit stop.
Sweltering, we realized we had gone the winter woollies a little prematurely, and had to stripe off a few layers. On we hiked. The first leg was 2-3 km through winding rugged woodland. A little surprised by the grueling start, we came up with a "warm up" pace of 10 minutes walking, 4-5 minutes resting for the first hour. Finally cooperating, our muscles stretched and our heaving gasps reverted to controlled breathing, and believe it or not, we actually started to make progress.
Hiking along, what struck me as pleasant but a little unusual, was the fact that we had come quite a way without seeing or hearing another human being. Are we still in Japan I thought? Here I was, fully expecting there to be zillions of fellow fanatics to join us in our quest - and yet, all that greeted us a part from a few buzzing insects, was a refreshing, peaceful silence. I took a moment to take in my surroundings. Blurry street-lights sketched out the city below, and a full moon and lucid starry sky above lit our trail.
Our solitude was short-lived, however, as we struck civilization at the 6th Station. We stopped for a brief rest and chocolate reprieve, before continuing on.
The zigzagging trail began to grow steeper from here, and plenty of mutual "gabare-yo's" were needed to get us through to the 7th. While still alive, a photo was taken to commemorate the achievement so far.
Between the 7th and the 8th Station the terrain under foot became rockier, each step had to be made with precision to avoid tripping over. Relief spread over our faces as we dropped our packs and sank to our knees. It was 2:20 in the morning - we had finally made it to the 8th Station. There were swarms of backpack clad creatures gathered at this station, mostly people on organized tours receiving last minute instructions from their guides. We rested here for some time, as this was the last stopping point on this particular route before we reached the top. I changed into a clean pair of socks and felt a little better. The wind had picked up and the temperature had sunk to a mere 5 degrees. We put on our jackets for some added insulation, strapped on our packs and filed out.
Falling in line behind the troopers, aged from 7 to 70, the pace slowed to a subdued plod. Sardine-like packed into the 2-3 meter wide trail - comparable to a rush hour train, there was little room for overtaking. Somewhat frustrated, all we could do was shadow the movements of the person in front of us.
Dawn was fast approaching and the sky began to change from a night blue to a shady orange. I could make out quite clearly the snake trail of people above and below that had previously appeared only as dots of light emanating from flash lights. Will we make the summit in time I wondered, beginning to wish we had left earlier. Slower hikers were suddenly requested by guides to keep to the right. Not wasting a moment, I surged ahead at every opportunity, my housemate on my heels. "What's the rush?" he asked between gulps of air, "the view is not going to get that much better you know!". Ignoring his rational swipe, I pushed on. I pictured myself perched on the very top waiting for the sunrise, and seemingly a new energy swirled through my veins. Filled with this vision, I scampered up the remaining rock face toward the torii gate.
With baited breath I sat, hypnotized, as the first rays of the new day burst forth, spreading out over the thin misty cloud cover. I exhaled. It was a breath of jubilation, of happiness and of relief. For not only had we made it to the top, and made it in time to observe an intoxicating sunrise, we had endured and my long held dream was finally realized. Would I do it again? Well, you know what they say...

"He who climbs Fuji-san once is a wise man;
He who climbs its twice is a fool".

Word Glossary:
Inaka - Countryside
Genki - Vigorous, energetic
Shindoi - Tiring (Kansai dialect)
Onigiri - Rice ball
Onsen - Hot spring
Ganbare-yo - Give it one's best
Torii - Shinto shrine gate

T. Grey


Flavor of the Month: Nasu

Nasu (‰ΦŽq: Eggplant), also called Nasubi, is one of the most popular and versatile vegetables eaten all over world. Usually round or long and slender in shape, the eggplant comes in a range of colors; from the glossy black and deep purple variety commonly found here in Japan, to the unusual green and white fruits of the Middle East. The color provides an appeal all of its own, and from the delicious taste and vast array of dishes possible, there is sure to be something to tempt even the fussiest eater. Historically speaking, the eggplant can be traced back to Asia.
Initially grown in South East Asia as an ornamental plant, the eggplant was first produced as a food in India from about the 4th century. By the 5th century it had spread east to China and west to the Arabian peninsular. In China, the eggplant not only served as a food source, the skins of blackish-purple eggplants were used to make cosmetic dye. Two types of eggplant entered Japan via China during the 8th century. From North China came a round-shaped variety, while from South and Central China, a slender elongated type was introduced. In the 12th century, the Arabs introduced the eggplant into Spain, from where it later traveled to England, Italy and other Europe countries under an aphrodisiac guise.
In Japan, nasu have enjoyed favor with the local palate since its introduction. Produced in abundance throughout July and August, nasu are invariably consumed most during summer and early autumn. However, "Aki-nasu" (H‰ΦŽq) or Autumn eggplant, which are harvested in September, carry a reputation as the most flavorsome.
Kyoto is famous for the excellent quality of nasu it produces. Of particular note are the large round-shaped variety called "Kamo-nasu" (‰Α–Ξ‰ΦŽq). The name comes from the Kamo district in which they were traditionally cultivated, an area also renowned for the magnificent shrine, Kamigamo-jinjya (γ‰κ–ΐ_ŽΠ). Today, only a small number of the farmers continue to cultivate traditional Kamo-nasu. Hence, due to it delicious taste yet limited supply, it has become quite expensive to buy. The Yamashina district, also famed for its nasu, produces a delicious long slender-shaped fruit called "Yamashina-nasubi" (ŽR‰Θ‰ΦŽq). Unfortunately due to the expanding urbanization of the district, this type of eggplant has almost disappeared, with only a few producers remaining. While nasu production may be on the decline, there is no shortage of nasu delicacies.
When it comes to making Japanese nasu dishes, it is common to use a little bit of salad or Tempura oil as plant oils compliment and enhance nasu's flavor. And this is particularly so when cooking Kamo-nasu. I suggest cutting the large Kamo-nasu into halves or thick slices and frying them in Tempura oil. After you have done this, why not try your hand at making Dengaku (“cŠy) or Agedashi (—go‚΅) dishes from the fried nasu.
You may have tasted Tofu Dengaku (“€•…“cŠy) made of grilled slices of tofu (soybean curd) with miso (fermented soybean paste) spread on top. The miso spread is very easy to make. All you need to do is mix miso, sugar and sake (rice wine) in a proportion of about 3:1:2 and simmer the mixture for several minutes over low heat. Then, pour the paste over the fried Kamo-nasu and you have "Kamo-nasu Dengaku".
You also may be familiar with Tentsuyu (“V`), a flavor sauce that goes well with Tempura. You can find concentrated Tentsuyu at the supermarket. Add water to dilute it as indicated, then warm up the mixture. Dip the fried Kamo-nasu into the warmed Tentsyu and eat immediately. As an extra, you can add grated ginger and/or grated Daikon (white radish ) to enhance the flavor. This is "Kamo-nasu Agedashi".
Of course, all of these dishes can be made using any type of nasu. In general, Asian eggplants have a very tender skin, so there is no need to peel them. This makes cooking nasu, be it grilled, fried, roasted, pickled or stir-fried, quicker and easier. Bon appetite!
T. Fujii