SOMETHING SWEET AND HORNY?

Have you ever tasted a sweet that has many "horns" on it, like a star? It has a faint sugary aroma when you put it in your mouth, which becomes more obvious when you bite it. The sweet is called konpeito.
It is said that Konpeito ("confeito" in Portugese) came to Japan from Portugal in 1549, with the arrival of St. Francisco Xavier in Kagoshima. ODA Nobunaga (織田信長 1534-1582, a famous lord) was given konpeito as a gift by a Christian missionary a few years later. At that time, the nobility and people in power appreciated it because of its visual beauty as well as its ingredient, sugar, which had not existed in Japan before. The Imperial Family, temples and shrines are said to have used it in celebrations and tea ceremonies. Now, the common people in Japan love it as a more familiar sweet than what it used to be 450 years ago.
In the 16th century, the manufacturing process of konpeito was a well-guarded secret. The Portugese preferred to sell it to the Japanese as a rare sweet, thus keeping its value as a coveted trading item. But in the Edo period (1603-1867), confection artisans of Nagasaki, Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) learnt the secret and began to manufacture the sweet.
The tradition of konpeito-making is kept at Ryokujuan Shimizu, where the artisans put small pieces of ground rice as kernels in a big caldron which roasts and covers the kernels with syrup for 10 days to one month. The artisans must know and determine many conditions: they must put more syrup in when it runs out, how thick the syrup should be, how fast the caldron should turn and at what angle to incline it. All of these factors are decided by the artisan's experience and senses. They learn about the konpeito while mixing it in the special turner every day, and see it change according to weather. Humidity and temperature play a big role in the process of konpeito-making.
All day, from morning to evening, the craftsmen keep putting syrup over the kernels, making them dry and taking care so they're not broken and not stuck together. Konpeito only growns 1mm in diameter a day, says Mr. SHIMIZU Sei'ichi, the fourth-generation Chief Artisan. "They grow as fast as a limestone cave", he laughs. "How fast they grow depends on the weather, and I couldn't even tell you how long it takes at the very beginning of the process".
"Usually, they are about 1mm in diameter on the third day, and the horns appear on the fifth. If they haven't got horns by then, they'll never get them. But once they get them, we have to be very careful for them not to snap or crack. We have to treat them like our children."
While kompeito is made, the temperature of the workshop is kept at thirty degrees Celsius or more to crystallize the sugar. There is no air-conditioning or a fan, so in the summer the temperature goes up even higher. This patient process has kept the taste of the kompeito unchanged for centuries.
Still, there are over 40 different flavors, ranging from cinnamon to green tea and now coffee and vanilla. All ingredients chosen as flavorings are natural. You can buy the sweet in almost all department stores in Kyoto, but if you go to the main store, you can hear the sound of kompeito growing in the caldron. Why not have a taste of one of the oldest European imports to Kyoto?

R. Hakamada

Ryokujuan Shimizu, Tel.771-0755
Open 10:00-18:00 summer, 10:00-17:00 winter, closed some Sundays and national holidays.
Location: Marikoji, south of Imadegawa (close to Hyakumanben intersection)



KORYO MUSEUM OF ART

I got off the bus at a quiet and beautiful residential area in the northern Kyoto. A white signboard of 'Koryo Museum of Art' was immediately within my sight on the opposite side of the road. After a brief walk, I noticed a patterned fence made of stone and clay; on both sides of the entrance gate, larger-than-life statues smiled in welcome.
This Koryo Museum of Art was founded in 1988 by Chong Cho-mum ( 鄭 詔文 ) who was a Korean living in Japan. He spent forty years collecting Korean stone figures, images of Buddha, calligraphic works, furniture, ceramics, including the famed blue porcelain from the Kingdom of Koryo and white porcelain from the Li Dynasty. When the total number of collected items reached 1,700, he rebuilt his house to the two-storied building seen today and made it a museum. His fine collection was offered to the public as a foundation.
Chong named the museum "Koryo", from Koryo Dynasty (918-1392), a brilliant era during which Korean Peninsula was unified. He wished for his fellow countrymen to have pride and confidence in their ancestry and for Japan to learn about its closest neighbors.
Earlier this century, Japan colonized the peninsula by force and tormented its inhabitants for 36 years until World War II. The activities of the Japanese army there were much more brutal than ordinary Japanese people could imagine.
Mr. Chong hoped that the appreciation of art would contribute to mutual understanding between the people of Korea and Japan. One month after the museum's opening, Mr. Chong became ill and passed away. He seemed aware of his condition, and was all the more eager to work prior to the opening of the museum.
In the exhibition room, I was enticed into the unique world of refined traditional Korean art. Pottery, furniture, carvings and other items are shown on the first floor, while old furniture decorated with various mediums including shell, leather and other materials is displayed along with a model of a traditional drawing room (saranban) on the second floor. I was struck with the delicate beauty of a blue porcelain vase from the 12th century, and boldness of richly decorated cabinets from 19th century. They appeared very continental to my eyes.
In a pretty garden, also on the second floor, many traditional large pots used to store food such as kim'chi are arranged. Apparently you could tell a rich house by the number of these pots. I remembered that I saw similar pots in Korea on a mountain-side, used as trash receptacles. They seemed to belong to the nature. I couldn't help thinking about the contrast with the trash strewn along the mountainsides in Japan.

N. Suematsu


Weronika says her goodbyes to Kyoto...

Life is a state of constant change, and it is stability that is only an illusion

Three years! With the level my English stooped to, you'd think I've been here forever and never spoken to another foreigner.
After the initial culture shock, which wasn't helped by the smoking crowds on Kawaramachi or the men using the subway stations as their personal spittoons, I came to really like Kyoto and appreciate the fact that I was here during the time of many changes: economic, social and political. And although the fast disappearance of its architectural and natural heritage infuriates me, Kyoto still has an ambience unmatched by any other city I have lived in. You wouldn't be here either if it didn't, I'm sure.
I won't go into all the things that are unique about Kyoto, or the four distinct seasons: you're bombarded by that type of jargon from all sides already. I know though, that the experiences I have had here were one of a kind to me, and that the people I have met have now become a part of my personal treasure of friendships and memories. I hope you know it too: that your time here can not be repeated. May you get the very most from it, and take all that this city has to offer you, for certainly it has a lot.
I hope you enjoyed reading Life in Kyoto over the past three years. I unquestionably enjoyed making it… well, maybe not the late nights spent talking to the computer ("behave! don't freeze on me now, I have a deadline!!!"). Writing and editing Life in Kyoto has provided me with an excuse to meet many fascinating people and seek out places I otherwise would not have known.
There are many "thank-you"'s I owe, but the biggest thanks must go to the resourceful volunteers who write Life in Kyoto. I hope that the 'mag' we created together has helped to make your time in Kyoto somewhat more entertaining, and that perhaps in some small way it has made you aware of all the possibilities open to you here.

Best Wishes,

Weronika Anasz
Editor, Life in Kyoto, August 1996 - August 1999



A FEW WORDS FROM THE NEW EDITOR

A huge hajimemashite to all LIK readers…
As is customary in Japan, I would like to begin with a self-introduction outlining some general facts about myself; where I am from and what I've been doing for the past few years.
My name is Tristan Grey and I am the new incoming Coordinator of International Relations. I will be taking over the editing role of "Life in Kyoto", endeavoring to one day come close to filling the enormous shoes that will be left after Weronika's departure. I come to Kyoto City as a representative of Canberra, the bush capital city of Australia. I'm not a Canberran born and bred however, having moved to Canberra for university studies in 1994 from a sleepy country town called Castlemaine. Castlemaine and its surrounding district, located in central Victoria about 1 and half hours drive north of Melbourne, were quite industrious boom towns during the gold rush era of the 1850's. These days, the local economy is chiefly supported through farming, tourism and local industries like the Foundry and the Bacon Factory. It has a population of about 7500 people.
For the past 20 years my parents have owned and operated the local taxis service, a fleet comprising of seven cars. About 6 years ago they built a service (gas) station that is made out of mud bricks, and looks more like a 19th Century cottage than a fuel pump station. While growing up in Castlemaine I spent much of my time (when I wasn't manning the gas pumps) involved in sports like Australian Rules Football, Cricket and Basketball. I attended a co-educational high school in the neighboring town of Bendigo, which is where I first encountered the Japanese culture and language. Apart from marking the beginning of an eternal struggle toward mastery of kanji (or lack of) among other elements of the language, I vividly recall meeting the first ever Japanese exchange student to my high school.
She came from a small town somewhere in southern Kyushu and was understandably a little overwhelmed at first at seeing so many "gaikokujin" in one place. I was curious to find out what had motivated her to come to Australia as I had never met an "exchange student". With her tiny 4 ft 8 inch frame and demure look, a lack of English ability didn't stop her communicating. I remember thinking how bold she must have been to leave behind her friends and family to come to Australia, but it soon seemed she had found a new group of family and friends to share her love and laughter with. I subsequently began studying Japanese that year with great interest, and after successfully applying for a Rotary Exchange Student Scholarship came to Japan for the first time in 1992, aged 16.
After an amazing 12 months as an exchange student at Waseda University High School in Tokyo, I returned to Australia to complete my final year of high school study. This brings us back to Canberra, where, at the Australian National University I majored in Japanese and Economic History (why ?) from 1994 through until 1998. I returned to Japan for my second visit during late December 1994. I traveled around the Kansai region for the first time, where I fell in love with the subtle and not so subtle differences from the Kanto region. During 1997, I was fortunate enough to again return to Osaka, where I spent 12 months studying at Kansai University. I graduated from the Australian National University at the end of 1998 with a Bachelor of Asian Studies (Japanese).
I am very honored to be working here in Kyoto and look forward to meeting and talking with as many of you as I can.
Yoroshiku Onegai Shimasu.

Tristan Grey