Taste of the Ages

Cleopatra, the exotic queen of ancient Egypt, was considered exceptionally beautiful and charming. She was also said to be a very clever and wise ruler. Perhaps one of the secrets behind this was the supposed fetish she had with cheese. In the epic poem "Odeswei", written around 800B.C by Homeros, a famous Greek poet, it was asserted that "by drinking whey and eating cheese, women become beautiful and gain wisdom, while men acquire strength". Cheese contains calcium, protein, and Vitamins A and B, all necessary elements for a healthy mind and body. So, maybe there is some truth to the words of Homeros. Undoubtedly the delicious flavors and nutritional qualities of cheese have been recognized and appreciated for a very long time. Bring your appetite as we devour through the history of cheese.
In Egypt, cheese, butter and yogurt are all thought to have been produced for thousands of years. There is an Arabian folktale that tells of a merchant that was traveling across the desert with goat's milk in a canteen made from the skin of a camel. In the evening, thirsty for a drink he stopped and opened the canteen. But to his surprise he found that the milk had separated into a clear liquid and a white curd. After drinking the not so tasty water he gave the remaining white curd to a farmer, who in turn, not overly taken with the taste stored it in a cave. A few months later the farmer chanced upon the same cave and discovered the curd had transformed into "tasty cheese". The events of this fable apparently took place around 1400 B.C. However, the discovery of cheese must surely have occurred even earlier than this. For milk has been around for thousands of years, and where there is milk, there can be cheese.
An English authority on archeology, Leonard Whooly, believes cheese was first produced from goats' milk in fertile lands along the rivers Tigris and Euphrates (running between Turkey and Persian Gulf) from about 6000 B.C. And appeared in Western Asia from approximately 3000 B.C. However, in the case of Japan, cheese did not appear until much later.
In the book, "Nihonchikusanshi" (“ú–{’n‹æŽYŽj: The History of Livestock in Japan), written by KAMO Giichi (‰Á–΋Vˆê), it notes that dogs, pigs, goats, sheep, and chickens all existed in Japan as early as 700 B.C. Goats milk was consumed during the Yayoi Period (300B.C - 200 A.D), and yet, there is no mention of cheese during this era. Was cheese still an unknown commodity to the Japanese at this stage? Or if not, was cheese not suited to the Japanese palate?
It is thought that milk products were first brought to China by traveling merchants or desert nomads from Mongolia, where such products were used for medical purposes. Eventually these products entered Japan via the Korean peninsula. In 562 the Zennanoomi family (‘P“ߎgŽå), who had immigrated to Korea from China, came to Japan and brought with them many rare and precious things including Buddhist statues, medical books and knowledge on how to make various milk products. The family members became naturalized Japanese citizens and served the royal family. Prince Shotokutaishi, a devout Buddhist and a great politician who was born during this period, undoubtedly grew up enjoying cheese and other milk products as result of his privileged upbringing. In Buddhist writings he studied, a monk's aestheticism was compared to the maturing of milk products, referring to such foods as yogurt, rare and mature cheese and butter. In Buddhism, milk products were considered very special, and were even used as an offering to Buddha. Emperor Kotoku (�F“¿), who reigned from 645-654, often received milk as a gift from the 2nd and 3rd Zennanoomi Family head. Such was its importance, a technical officer or chinochojo (“û’·�ã) was appointed to oversee production of milk and milk products on behalf of the royal family.
In 701 the Taiho Code (‘å•ó–@—ß), the first penal and administration code, was introduced. Also, around this time "wadokaichin" (˜a“¯ŠJàÝ) or "wadokaiho", Japan's oldest coins were first minted. During such lively and changing times, Emperor Monbu (•¶•�)�@dispatched cheese-making envoys into the countryside and ordered them to pay their tributes in cheese. In 1988, about seventy four thousand "mokkan" (–ØŠÇ), memos written on pieces of wood, were found in the ruins of Heijokyo (•½�é‹ž), present-day Nara Prefecture. These memos tell us which country regions contributed cheese, of which present-day Shiga and Shimane Prefectures figure prominently. Furthermore, two "mokkan" found in the ruins of government minister NAGAYAO's (’·‰®‰¤) residence, dating back to the 8th century, certify that he exchanged rice for milk with a farmer and that another farmer used his kitchen as a place to make cheese.
During the Heian Period (9C.-12C.) 55 different country regions from Kyushu to Ibaragi provided cheese to the emperor and royal family. The cheese would have spoiled in the summer heat while being transported to Kyoto, so it was brought during winter. Limited to the noble classes, cheese was served at banquets as a special delicacy. It was thought of as a medicine providing perpetual youth and long life. In "Shoyuki" (�¬‰E‹L), a diary on court life written by FUJIWARA no Sanesuke (“¡Œ´ŽÀŽ‘), it notes FUJIWARA no Michinaga (“¡Œ´“¹’·), a powerful court officer ruling Japan for 30 years, ate cheese with honey every day as he suffered from diabetes. During the same period, a farm called "Ajifuno-maki" (–¡Œ´–q) was established in Osaka where grazing land existed and water from Yodo-gawa River was available for irrigation. This farm delivered seven milking cows to "Nyugyuin" (“û‹�‰@), a small dairy farm built for the royal family. This was later taken over by a powerful military family, becoming the fief of the Kasugasha clan.
In the transition from a dynasty period to a warring state at the end of the 12th century, cheese making seems to have disappeared. Government lands were taken over by temples, shrines and powerful families, and the system of cheese contribution gradually eroded.
After the Meiji Restoration (1868), the government adopted a policy of modernization and began to introduce western civilization into Japan. In 1875, cheese was produced by Hokkaido-kaitakucho (–kŠC“¹ŠJ‘ñ’¡), the Hokkaido Development Agency, and later in 1904, by a Trappist Monastery. A major cheese factory established in 1932 had sold only 450 grams of processed cheese by 1934. Surprisingly, very little cheese was consumed in Japan until 1951 - just ten grams per person. Cheese-cakes became popular in the 1960's, but this was mainly cream cheese rather than processed cheese. However, from 1975 onwards, national consumption began to steadily rise, particularly for cheese used in pizza.
Today, Japan's ranks sixth in the world among cheese importing countries, and is also supported by 70 domestic cheese factories. Produced specifically for the Japanese palate, a great variety of delicious cheeses are available for our enjoyment. If you haven't yet savored the tantalizing flavors of local cheese, make haste to your nearest supermarket and test out Homeros' theory.

I. Hashimoto

AKAME

Japan belongs to a volcanic region with 18% of the country covered by andesite, an igneous rock. Vertical joints often form in this type of rock creating beautiful, yet sometimes strange scenery. Akame (�Ô–Ú), an area situated on the north-west border of Mie prefecture, is particularly famous for its many waterfalls made from andesite. It is called Akame-shijuhattaki (�Ô–ÚŽl�\”ª‘ê), meaning forty-eight water falls. However, there are no longer that many water falls in the area.
An unusual animal found in the mountain streams of Akame is the Osanshouo (‘åŽRž£‹›). A kind of giant salamander, osanshouo is the largest amphibian in the world, measuring 70-120 cm. in length. It is found throughout parts of western Japan, and is considered a rare and important animal. At the Nihon Sanshouo Center (“ú–{ƒTƒ“ƒVƒ‡ƒEƒEƒIƒZƒ“ƒ^�[), various kinds of salamander including osanshouo are bred and can be viewed by the public.
Visitors can also enjoy hiking around Akame for there are beautiful flowers in spring, fresh air and greenery in summer, and brilliant colored leaves in autumn. It seems quite far from Kyoto, but only two hours by train will bring you there.
There are two main routes to get to Akame. One way is to start from Akameguchi (�Ô–ÚŒû) Station and go to Akame by bus. The other is to start from Nabari (–¼’£) Station passing through Koochidani (��—ŽŒk) Gorge. I recommend the latter route because you can look at Shorenji-ko (�˜@Ž›ŒÎ) Lake and the interestingly strange shaped rocks along Shorenji-gawa (�˜@Ž›�ì) River along the way.
Access: From Kyoto take Kintetsu line bound for Kashihara, change at Yamatoyagi Station to the Kintetsu-Osaka line. Then get off at Akameguchi or Nabari.
From Kyoto Station you can take a train bound for either Nara or Tenri, changing twice at Saidaiji, and Yamatoyagi. It takes about 30 minutes each way between Kyoto and Saidaiji, Saidaiji and Yamatoyagi, then Yamatoyagi and Nabari by express train (1 and half hours by express train between Kyoto and Nabari). Take note that express trains do not stop at Akameguchi station. You must take a bus from Akameguchi to Akamedaki (12min.) or from Nabari to the Ochiai (—Ž�‡) bus stop in Koochidani Gorge (30min.).
Hiking Route 1: Ochiai -> Akamedeaijaya (�Ô–Ú�o�‡’ƒ‰®) -> Gankutsu-daki Falls (ŠâŒA‘ê) -> Akamedaki (�Ô–Ú‘ê: 8 km, 3 hrs.)
Hiking Route 2: Akamedaki (4.3km.) -> Gankutsu-daki Falls. It takes about 3 hours there and back.
Fee: \300 for entrance into the part of the Muro-Akame-Aoyama Quasi-National Park (includes visit to Nihon Sanshouo Center)
M. Amanuma