Flavor of the Month: Takenoko

Freshness is of the utmost importance when it comes to eating takenoko (’|‚ÌŽq)
or bamboo shoots, which literally means "bamboo child". One of the main districts
producing delicious takenoko, Kyoto is known for its "Asahori-takenoko" or "Takenoko
dug this morning". As the name indicates, takenoko is dug up in the early morning
from their well ordered groves, the shoots�@severed from the roots, then immediately
transported to market. Therefore, it is not unusual to find bamboo shoots with damp
soil on their surface, demonstrating their freshness.
If not fresh, takenoko must be first boiled in water for at least half an hour in order to
remove its unpleasant bitter taste. Rice bran added to the water is believed to help
speed up this process, partly because it works as an absorbing agent.
On the other hand, fresh asahori-takenoko will not require boiling prior to cooking,
as they contain only a minimal amount of the bitter substance. Fresh takenoko served
immediately after harvest can be eaten raw. In fact, it is quite common to find
"takenoko sashimi " in Japanese restaurants located near bamboo producing sites.
It has been scientifically proven that a chemical reaction by enzymes embodied within
the bamboo tissue cells causes the different tastes between fresh and old takenoko.
Within the rapidly sprouting tip of a bamboo shoot, a large quantity of amino acid called
tyrosine accumulates. This actually has a nice taste. However, when the bamboo shoots
are cut off from the roots, which effectively ends the plant's life, the accumulating
tyrosine is gradually broken down by enzymes to form a related substance called
homogenistic acid. This substance causes the unpleasant taste.
Here are a few tips to keep in mind when you purchase takenoko. Firstly, takemono
sold at grocery stores or supermarkets is usually already a few days to a week old,
so you need to boil it before cooking. Takenoko appearing in the market in early April
is very expensive. This is because it is the first harvest of the season. Therefore,
it is best to wait for a while, as the price will soon come down.
Among a variety of takenoko dishes, some of the most popular in Kyoto include:
Nimono (cooked simply with katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) soup and shoyu),
Wakatake Soup (clear soup with wakame seaweed), Kinome-ae (mixed with white miso,
vinegar and crushed Japanese black pepper leaves). Please consider�c

T. Fujii

Kyoto Past & Present

Nishikyo Ward
Nishikyo is the name of Kyoto's newest ward. Previously a part of Ukyo ward,
Nishikyo was developed as a new ward in 1976 to service the areas expanding
population. It extends to the southwest of Kyoto City; backed by the Nishiyama
Mountain Range in the west, and divided from Ukyo ward by the Katsura River
in the east. Based on evidence uncovered during excavations of old tombs and
ruins in the area, it is believed that people first settled there during pre-historical
times, as the climate was mild compared to other parts of Kyoto.
The ward assumes a shape similar to that of a butterfly spreading its wings.
In the 'right wing', you can find well-known temples such as Saiho-ji Temple (�¼–FŽ›),
Tenryu-ji Temple (“V—´Ž›), and Honrin-ji Temple (–@—ÖŽ›), while famous shrines
include Matsuo Taisha (�¼”ö‘åŽÐ), Umenomiya Jinja (”~ƒm‹{�_ŽÐ) and Katsura
Imperial Villa (Œj—£‹{). Furthermore, some of the finest views of Arashiyama begin
in the upper 'right wing'.
The 'left wing' may be a little less conspicuous, although nonetheless there are
several sites of historical and cultural heritage. Excavations have revealed stone
tools which date back to the Paleolithic, or Old Stone Age
(about 2 million yrs. ago - 8,000 BC) and ceramic ware from the Yayoi Period
(300 BC - 300 AD). Other items have also been uncovered, particularly from
Emperor Kanmu's tomb and the ruins of a temple from the 5-6th century,
now known as Katagihara Haiji Ato. With the transfer of the capital from
Nara to Nagaokakyo in 784, the area became popular among aristocrats and
the Imperial Family who would often visit temples and shrines for worship. Interestingly,
game hunting was also a common activity enjoyed in the area. During this period,
new temples and shrines such as Yoshmine-dera�i‘P•ôŽ›,�@Tel. 331- 0020�j, Shoji-ji
(�ŸŽ�Ž› hana no tera, Tel. 331- 0601 ), Oharano Jinja (‘匴–ì�_ŽÐ Tel. 331-0014),
and Jurin-ji (�\—ÖŽ› Tel. 331- 0154) were built, adding to several others existing
in the area since the 4-5th century.
Up until about 40 years ago, Nishikyo ward was a relatively tranquil agricultural area,
with only a few stores and houses located along the main road. However, economic
growth surged during the 1960's and the area was developed into a bed-town of
Kyoto City, where young people flocked to build their houses. In addition, the development
policy of the local government brought about population growth, almost doubling
the number of residents between 1960 and 1975. In response to the growing demands
as a result of this increase in population, in 1976 Nishikyo was established as a separate ward.
At this stage Nishikyo had two big towns, Katsurazaka and Rakusai.
Over the past 20 years, various kinds of public institutions have sprung up around
these towns. They include the Kokusai Nihon Bunka Kenkyu Center (�‘�Û“ú–{•¶‰»
Œ¤‹†ƒZƒ“ƒ^�[ Tel. 335-2222), Rakusai Fureai no Sato Hoyo Kenshu Center (—Œ�¼‚Ó‚ê
‚ ‚¢—¢•Û—{Œ¤‹†ƒZƒ“ƒ^�[Tel. 333-4651), Kyoto City Municipal College of Art (‹ž“sŽs—§
Œ|�p‘åŠwTel. 332-0701), Kyoto Eminence (‹ž“sƒGƒ~ƒi�[ƒXTel. 332-5800), Kyoto City
Rakusai Bamboo Park (‹ž“sŽs—Œ�¼’|—ÑŒö‰€ Tel. 331-3821.Although Nishikyo ward
has been transformed into a residential area, agriculture still prospers in the mountainous
regions. You can get fresh vegetables all season round, for example, bamboo shoots
in spring and juicy percimums in autumn.
Now, in the midst of spring, it is the best season for hiking or just relaxing outdoors.
In Nishikyo, you can trace the history of the area, view cherry blossoms, see the sites
and modern centers, eat fresh bamboo shoots, or just enjoy a walk. I suggest walking
from Hankyu Katsura Station or taking a city bus (�¼: Nishi #1 thru to 7) and getting off
somewhere along the way to walk. This winter I hiked through the foothills of the Nishiyama
Mountain Range with a friend. Warmly welcomed by nature, we hardly came across
another soul as we wandered along the mountain trails. For us, it was like discovering
a hidden treasure.

Y. Matsuda

Kikoku-tei

An Oasis in the City
Every time my bus passed by the long wall near Kyoto Station on Kawaramachi Street,
I use to wonder what the extensive premises were that lay hidden behind it. On venturing
inside, I discovered Kikoku-tei, (Trifoliate Orange Villa) named after the kikoku trees,
or trifoliate orange hedging which surrounds most of the grounds. The name Kikoku-tei
sounds rather unique and unforgettable, doesn't it? Formally called Shosei-en Garden
(�Â�¬‰€), the villa is an annex of Higashi Honganji Temple (“Œ–{ŠèŽ›).
In 1641, Sennyo Shonin (‹X�ã�l), the 13th heir of Higashi Honganji Temple, was granted
the site from Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu (“¿�ì‰ÆŒõ) and 16 years later the large-scale,
promenade-like landscape garden was completed. On two occasions since then,
the premises were devastated by fire. During the early Meiji Period (1868-1912) the garden
was restored to it's original condition and later designated as a National Historic Site.
Kikoku-tei is situated just 10 minutes walk from Kyoto station. In this case, accessibility
and tranquillity appear to meet in unison. You will marvel at the natural harmony between
trees, rocks, buildings and a peculiar shaped pond. Several sites with historical and artistic
value have been preserved and remain relatively unknown, visited by only a small number
of well-informed people. Kikoku-tei could be likened to an oasis in the city.
If you visit Kikoku-tei, the magnificent stone wall just inside the front gate is sure to get
your attention. Designed as a mosaic, it is made up of various rocks including an old grind
stone, with different sizes, shapes and colors. The original designer of the stone wall is unknown.
The garden is planted with plum, cherry, maple and wisteria trees, so visitors can appreciate
the atmosphere of each of the four seasons. Spring is perhaps the best time to visit as there
are over 50 different cherry blossom trees. With the likes of Hikanzakura (”ꊦ�÷: winter
blossom), Higanzakura (”ÞŠÝ�÷: spring equinox blossom), Someiyoshino (�õˆä‹g–ì�÷: Yoshino
'common' blossom) and Botanzakura (‰²’O�÷: multi-petal blossom), blooming one after
another, you can enjoy cherry blossom viewing for the entire month.
Access: 10-minute walk to the north from Kyoto Station
5-minute walk from City Bus stop Shichijo-Karasuma
7 minute-walk from Gojo Subway Station
Open: 9:00 - 16:00
Admission: Free (but a small contribution is appreciated)
Inquiries: call 371-9181, or check out http://www.tomo-net.or.jp (Japanese)

M. Matsushita

A Symbol Blooms, A Party Looms

The timeless beauty of the "sakura", or cherry blossom, is the definitive symbol of
spring in Japan. Beginning in mid-March, a tsunami of light pink gradually rolls its way
north from Okinawa to Hokkaido, leaving a snow-like covering in its wake. Sakura's
aesthetic significance is deeply
ingrained on the people's psyche, for it not only symbolizes spring, it symbolizes
a cultural ideal. Well, suffice to say it is no mere 'Kleenex for tissue' synonym. "Hanami"
(cherry-blossom-viewing), and the parties that often accompany it, have a long history.
Surprisingly, it was actually the plum blossom that first captured the hearts of
the Japanese, with the cherry blossom later emerging as a national favorite after
the capital was moved to Kyoto in the 8th century. Its rise to prominence came
courtesy of the "hanami party", an annual custom first celebrated by aristocrats
during the Heian Period (794 -1185). The most noted hanami party took place
at Daigo-ji Temple in Kyoto during the spring of 1598. It was organized by military
leader TOYOTOMI Hideyoshi (1537-1598) and attended by more than 1300 guests.
By the Edo Period (1600 -1868), hanami parties had gained widespread popularity
among all levels of society.
Nowadays, wherever there is a cherry tree in bloom, you are likely to find a host of
merry makers sitting under it, reveling in song and drink. "Sake-downing-party-under
-cherry-blossom" is one colorful interpretation of the event. Although not a personal
suggestion, I will leave the interpreting up to you!
Kyoto, with its abundance of traditional nature spots is a mecca for sakura viewing,
and therefore hanami parties. The company of good friends, tasty food and a drop of
your finest, all amid such beauty and splendor - well, there is not much more you
can ask for! Get in early and reserve your ground mat space this spring, and participate
in a time-honored partying tradition.
Some venues include:

Maruyama Koen Park
Located in Higashiyama ward (Gion), near Yasaka-jija Shrine and Choraku-ji Temple.
Its popularity as a hanami location has grown over the years around the giant shidarezakura
(weeping) cherry tree. Go early to beat the crowds!

Hirano-jinja Shrine
Hirano Shrine, located in Kita ward, has been famous for its cherry blossoms ever
since Emperor Kazan had several thousand planted there during the 10th century.
Today, over 500 cherry trees of 45 different varieties remain for your viewing pleasure.
Also, don't miss the Sakura Matsuri (Cherry Blossom Festival) held on Monday 10th
of April, especially the Jinkosai Festvial Parade (13:00 - 15:30), which is considered
a miniature version of the well known Jidai Maturi (Festival of the Ages).

Daigo-ji Temple
On Sunday 9th of April, a "Hanami Parade" is held to celebrate the restoration
of Daigo-ji Temple and honor TOYOTOMI Hideyoshi. It is located about 10 minutes
walk from Daigo Stn. (Exit 1) on Tozai subway line. For further details, Tel. 075-571-0002

General Viewing
Basically anywhere along the banks of the Kamogawa River, but especially in the vicinity
of the Botanical Gardens. The Botanical Gardens is also a popular venue, but remember
only alcohol-free hanami parties are permitted. In Sakyo ward, following along the Path
of Philosophy (Tengaku-Michi), and #2 Sosui Canal (which begins from near Kumano
Nyakuoji Shrine), there is plenty of great viewing. Make the most of the good weather and enjoy!

Ed.

KYOTO FLEA MARKETS

Name: Nishijin Rakuichi Rakuza
Place: Myorenji-Temple (–­˜@Ž›)
Date: 12 th every month
Time: 9:00-17:00
Access: City bus Horikawa teranouchi (–x�쎛”V“à)

Name: Flea market Kameno-ichi
Place: Matsuo Taisha Shrine (�¼”ö‘åŽÐ)
Date: Every Second Sunday
Time: 8:00-16:00
Access: City bus Matsuo Taisha

Name: Nadeshiko charity Flea Market
Place: Kosho-ji Temple (‹»�¶Ž›)
Date: Every Last Sunday
Time: 10:30-16:00
Access: Keihan Uji Station (‹ž�ã‰FŽ¡‰w)

Name: Flea Market Omoshiro ichi
Place: Kosho-ji Temple (‹»�¶Ž›)
Date: Every 28th
Time: 10:00-16:00
Access: JR. Kyoto Station

Name: Genko-ji Flea Market
Place: Genko-ji Temple (Œ¹ŒõŽ›)
Date: Every Sunday
Time: 10:00-16:00
Access: JR. Kyoto Station

Name: To-ji Garakuta Ichi
Place: To-ji Temple (“ŒŽ›)
Date: Every First Sunday
Time: Early morning - 14:30
Access: Subway Toji Station

Name: Bizen Gyaruri Flea Market
Place: Bizenya Build. (”õ‘O‰®ƒrƒ‹’n‰ºƒz�[ƒ‹)
Date: Every first Saturday
Time: 11:00-15:00
Access: Subway Kokusaikaikan Station

Name: Saezuri-ichi
Place: Kamigoryo-Jinjya (�ãŒä—ì�_ŽÐ)
Date: Every 18th
Time: 9:00-16:00
Access: Subway Kokusaikaikan Station