Omote: Noh Masks

Noh: A Masked Performance
　　　For many people, the first thing that Noh calls to mind are the masks that the performers wear. Even people who have never seen a noh play may have seen noh masks at one point or another.
　　　For example, in Miyazaki Hayao's animated film Sen to Chihiro no Kamikakushi (Spirited Away in English), the face of the river god is depicted as a mask called Okina. This is an example of how Noh imagery can be seen as a part of everyday Japanese culture.

The History of Noh Masks
　　　Noh masks have a history longer than noh itself. Some of the older forms of entertainment upon which Noh is based used similar masks. The most famous of these is Okina Sarugaku, which is known in modern noh as Okina. What makes this one so special is that the mask is considered a god itself.
　　　The performance of Okina depicts a religious ceremony rather than a narrative story. The head actor (shite ) plays the role of a priest, and gains god-like powers when he puts on the mask. While wearing the mask, he is able to speak the words of a god, praising the audience and presenting prayers for world peace.
　　　The tradition of noh masks began with Okina, but as the stories shifted from tales about the gods to stories to about humans, a wider variety of Noh masks appeared. Moreover, not all Noh masks are derived from Okina. Some of them were created as part of early Japanese folklore. For example, farmers would create a mask called Ryujin, a god of rain who appeared in the form of a dragon. They would offer this mask at a shrine as in order to pray for rain to ensure a healthy crop. As years went by, the same mask would be handed down, and come to be used in entertainment such as Noh.

Omote (面=Noh Mask)
　　　The other day I had the opportunity to sit with a group of senior noh actors (nohgakushi ) and listen to them talk in the dressing room. The made some interesting comments about why noh actors refer to these masks by the word omote rather than nohmen (能面= Noh mask).面,the kanji for "Face" or "mask" can be read either way.
　　　However, the word omote has a double meaning- it can also be written using the character 表, which means "front", or "face", as opposed to 内(uchi , inside or backside). Therefore, a noh actor places his true face in the mask's uchi (inside) and his face becomes transformed into the omote, or mask. For the main actor (shite) the omote mask is more than just a tool for disguise, but also a spiritual object for transformation.

Must Omote always be used?
　　　Do nohgakushi always wear these masks when performing?
　　　The answer is no. When performing the roles of a people living in the material world, masks are never used. Using the actor's true face is called hitamen（直面=direct face). Waki (supporting actors) usually play these types of roles, and therefore perform with their natural faces.
　　　Noh actors always use omote when performing female roles, even if the female character is living in the material world. (Note: this may be because Noh actors are traditionally male). Child actors never use masks, even if the role they are playing traditionally uses a mask. In some Noh (such as the play Utaura), the shite performs both with and without the mask. There are no concrete rules that define the usage of masks, but regular viewers of noh will gradually begin to understand how masks are used.

Types of Noh Masks
　　　There are many different types of masks used for performing noh. Masks can depict old men, young men, women, gods and goblins. It is said that there are between eighty to two hundred types of omote, depending on the mask's details. Because each mask is hand carved, each will have unique details that distinguish it from the others, and no two masks are exactly alike.
　　　As I have written previously, the choice of omote is a very important factor when a leading actor (shite) performs noh, so he must carefully choose one which best suits the feeling of the particular performance.
　　　One of the most pleasurable aspects of watching noh is anticipating which mask the shite will wear. This element of surprise keeps things interesting, by creating an illusion for the spectators and going against their expectations.

Omote and Actors
　　　Noh actors are always struggling with masks. Although it may be difficult for outsiders to understand, Noh actors must fight to control the power of the mask. Noh actors will often say that omote exerts an influence on them.
　　　Therefore, a skillful command of omote is crucial for a good performance. A well made noh mask will have strong powers that can overwhelm an unskilled performer. Even a beautifully made mask will look shoddy when it is worn by a performer lacking a strong command of omote. There is an intimate relationship between noh actors and their masks. In some cases, only one particular actor may wear a certain mask.
　　　Omote are mysterious, fascinating, and sacred objects indispensable for the performance of noh.

-Original article by TAMOI Hiromichi, Noh Actor of the Kanze-Ryu School
-Translation by TAKADA Kimihiko
-Special thanks to M. Amanuma

Japanese Vegetables: Kyo Yasai and Beyond

　　　There is a Japanese proverb that says: "Products change according to place." Bearing this in mind, perhaps many non-Japanese people are more than a little confused as to how to cook certain Japanese vegetables. Moreover, there are many types of vegetables unique to Kyoto itself, such as such as the Shogoin daikon (聖護院大根, white radish) and Horikawa gobo ( 堀川牛蒡, burdock root). These delicious kyo-yasai (Kyoto vegetables) have recently experienced a resurgence in value. These special vegetables are used at first-class restaurants in Kyoto, as well as for making gourmet pickles.
　　　What are kyo-yasai? This term is used to describe vegetables unique have been cultivated in uniquely to Kyoto since the Edo period (17th century-19th century) or earlier. After the end of Edo Bafuku in 1868, many seeds were introduced to Japan from foreign countries, and are not true examples of native Kyoto vegetables.
　　　Of course, the vegetables grown 1,000 years ago were considerably different than the ones we eat presently (with the except of a few varieties such as nira, a type of leek; and seri,, Japanese parsley). Modern horticultural advances have allowed us to create vegetables that are more delicious than their ancestors.
　　　Why are there so many vegetables unique to Kyoto? The answer is a mix of history, climate and geography. Kyoto was the capital of Japan for more than 1,000 years, the home to the emperor, empress and other aristocracy. Kyoto became famous as a refined cultural center, which was reflected in the high quality of food available. Kyoto is located in a mountain basin area, so ancient people ate mostly preserved fish, as fresh seafood was not readily available. Therefore, when the nobility hosted parties, the cusine was focused around vegetables rather than fish, and a high standard for vegetables was required. Moreover, tsukemono(pickles) were the main dish eaten by the common people, so vegetables suitable for pickling were also developed.
　　　Additional factors that contributed to the creation of kyo-yasai was the cold but not windy climate, ideal for growing field vegetables such as leeks. There was an abundant water source nearby, (the Kamo River) and fertile earth from the trash that the citizens deposited in the fields around the outskirts of the city.
　　　As years went by, vegetable fields were turned into residential land, and the modern economy caused kyo-yasai to all but dissapear. However, kyo-yasai have recently become prized again.
　　　If you walk around your local supermarket, you can find not only vegetables grown in and around Kyoto, but vegetables from all over Japan and the world. I have provided a map illustrating the regions that different vegetables come from.

- VEGETABLE RECIPES
You may already know that you should be getting between three to five servings of vegetables daily. If you consider the wide variety of vegetables available in Japan, this shouldn't be too difficult! Why don't you try making one of these delicious, healthy recipes using Japanese vegetables? Recipes courtesy of Ikuko HASHIMOTO.

Furofukidaikon (風呂吹き大根)
This is a recipe using daikon radish (大根), containing vitamin C and amylase to promote digestion.
Ingredients:
350g daikon
Water leftover from rinsing white rice
Nijiru (2 cups dashi mixed with 1/2 tbsp each of sake, mirin and shoyu )
Nerimiso Sauce
To make the Nerimiso Sauce:
50g white miso
l tbsp sugar
1 tsp mirin
Cook these ingredients together over low heat until blended.
To make the daikon:
(1) Peel the daikon and cut it into 3cm (about 1.5") thick slices and cut a deep cross on each side.
(2) Boil the daikon in the rice water until tender.
(3) Pour away the water and heat the daikon with the nijiru liquid to add flavor to the dish.
(4) Serve the braised daikon slices topped with the nerimiso sauce, and garnish with yuzu zest (if available)

Kinpiragobo (きんぴら牛蒡)
Gobo (牛蒡), or burdock root, is a stringy root vegetable from Tochigi Prefecture rich in dietary fiber. There is a kyo-yasai version, but it is not commonly eaten.
Ingredients:
250 g gobo (2 thin gobo)
1/2 carrot
1 dry red pepper
1/2 tbsp salad oil
3tbsp soy sauce
1tbsp sugar
1tbsp sake mirin
sesame oil
white sesame seeds
Instructions:
(1) Wash the gobo and carrot and slice into thin strips. Soak the gobo in water for a few minutes, then drain.
(2) Wash the red pepper and remove the seeds, cutting it into pieces.
(3) Stir fry the red pepper in the salad oil, then add carrot and gobo, cooking until well coated.
(4) Add the seasonings and stir, put on the lid, simmering for 3-4 minutes.
(5) Turn off the heat, and allow the dish to sit for two minutes
(6) Drizzle with sesame oil, sprinkle with sesame seeds, and serve.

Sukiyaki (すき焼)
Sukiyaki is a famous dish made with beef and leeks. White leeks (shironegi) come from Tottori prefecture, while the Kujo area in Kyoto is famous for green leeks known as Kujo negi. Green leeks have much more Vitamin A and K than white ones.
Ingredients for two persons:
300g thinly sliced beef for sukiyaki
1/2 bundle of garland chrysanthemum
5 leeks
4 fresh shiitake mushrooms
1 cake of yakidofu baked tofu (bean curd)
200g shirataki (konnyaku yam flour noodles)
10 pieces fu (breadlike dried wheat gluten)
1 small piece beef fat
water, dashi (soup stock), or tsuyunomoto (You can buy this at the store)
2-4 eggs

-I. Hashimoto

Instructions for cooking:
(1) Wash vegetables. Cut the leeks diagonally into 2cm lengths. Tear the garland chrysanthemum into pieces. Cut the shiitake in half if they are large.
(2) Cut the tofu into 8 cubes
(3) Cook the shirataki in the boiling water for three minutes, and then drain.
(4) Dip the fu in warm water to moisten it, then squeeze the water out.
(5)Place a heavy-weight pan on a portable cooking gas cooking range. Melt a small piece of beef fat in the pan and add the leeks, beef, sugar mirin sake and shoyu. Add the other ingredients, but do not place the shirataki next to the beef, as it will make it tough. Add more water or stock as needed.
(6)To serve, each diner beats an egg in his or her serving bowl, and dips the cooked ingredients into the beaten egg before eating.

Bikes

　　　Do you observe Japanese Traffic Laws when you ride your bike?
　　　In Japan, bicycles are subject to regulation by traffic laws. If you violate these laws,
you could be punished with fine or imprisonment at hard labor. Please be careful to follow the rules when you take a ride.

Fines for violation of Traffic Laws:
Ride on the right side: fine of less than \50,000 or imprisonment at hard labor of less than 3 months
Neglect of traffic signals: fine of less than \50,000 or imprisonment at hard labor of less than 3 months
Ride without light at night : fine of less than \50,000
Two persons on a bike : fine of less than \20,000
Drunken riding : fine of less than \100,000 of imprisonment at hard work of 2 years
Please be careful when you take a ride!