| Kyoto Past & Present Nakagyo Muromachi Some of you may be familiar with the Muromachi Period (Ί¬γ1338-1573), an historical era duringwhich many aspects of Japanese culture, such as Noh theater, Tea ceremony and flower arrangement,flourished here in Kyoto. Today, "Muromachi" is widely associated with the kimono industry, for it isthe name of an area in Nakagyo-ku ward where the city's kimono related businesses are located.It is also the name of a major street running across the area.The Muromachi Period derived its name from the street in which the first shogun of the period,ASHIKAGA Takauji («Έ), built his palace during the 14th century. From here, the ASHIKAGA family dominated political rule over Japan for the following two centuries. Despite political confusion and resulting civil war,the Muromachi Period is also marked by the emergence of "Higashiyama Culture". Higashiyama was the name of the area in which the ASHIKAGA family built it's villa, now known as Ginkakuji Temple (βt: Silver Pavilion),to enjoy and promote various cultural arts. Since those days, Muromachi Street has played an important role in the administration and layout of the town.Downtown Kyoto was once divided into 4 parts by Muromachi and Shijo Streets, which run in a north-southand east-west direction respectively. Today however, Karasuma Street has taken over the formers' role. In days gone by, wealthy merchants lived along and around Muromachi Street. Some of the impressive "Yama-Hoko"floats still used in the Gion Festival date back to this time and may have witnessed the economic andcultural prosperity of the past. Having been the cultural center of Kyoto, it is no surprise that the Muromachi district still remainsthe key area of kimono business - one of the city's most important commercial fields. In recent years,however, drastic changes have taken place in the district. You will notice these changes by observingthe two photographs included in this article. One was taken during the 1940's, while the other was takenat the beginning of this year. Not so long ago the district was full of wholesalers' stores with the owners' families living in the inner part of the houses.These small private businesses, however, were gradually incorporated into larger companies.Tall concrete office buildings (see recent photograph) replaced the traditional wooden houses.Today there remain only a small number of residential houses in the district, and you are lucky if you see childrenrunning around and playing outside. There was once as many as eight elementary schools in the central district of Nakagyo-ku ward. All founded between 1869-70, these schools were the first of their kind to be established in Japan.However, with the decreasing number of students schools were forced to either close or amalgamate leavingonly one elementary school. However, despite all these changes, it is still possible for us to imagine the rich culture created by the peoplewho lived in the area as many historical buildings still remain. Why not step back in time by visitingthe famous Kongo School of Noh (see photograph), an elegantly built old wooden house - found along the busy Muromachi streetscape.
T. Fujii
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| Mini Promenade Saga Area If you enjoy the outdoor life, I recommend visiting the Saga area this coming spring. One of the best spots for cherry blossom-viewing in Kyoto, it is also well known for many famous temples and old houses.There are three train lines by which you get there. JR to Saga-Arashiyama station, Keifuku to Arashiyama stationor Hankyu to Arashiyama station. On arriving at Hankyu Arashiyama station, make your way toward Togetsu-kyo Bridgeon Katsura River, from where you get a fantastic view of the cherry blossoms. From Keifuku Arashiyama station,the bridge is just a few minutes walk to the south. Just across from the station you will find Tenryu-ji Temple,which was built in 1339 by ASHIKAGA Takauji, the first shogun of the Muromachi Period (1338-1573).It was created as a sanctuary for the soul of Emperor GODAIGO, who had died in the same year still holdinga grudge against the shogun for his betrayal.About a ten minute walk to the north across the JR line brings you to Seiryo-ji Temple.Through the impressive front gate you can see the main building of the temple (admission \300). Inside,there are several important Buddhist statues and colorful sketches depicting 500 elite Buddhist priests, known as "Gohyaku-rakan". Behind the main building spreads a beautiful Japanese garden and some smaller temples.You will notice a little teahouse near the main entrance. The Aburi-mochi rice cake servedthere is a 'must try' for those with a sweet tooth. To the right of Seiryo-ji you can find a path called "Kita-Saga Ocho-no-Michi" - a kind of 'historical trail' winding through the northern Saga area to Hirosawa-no-ike pond. Tofu produced in this area is famous for its quality,and so not surprisingly, you soon come across a well-known tofu shop called "Morika" where its possible to catch a glimpse of tofu production. If you follow the path along you pass by Daikaku-ji Temple andthe Imperial Mausoleum of Emperor Saga (786-842). Emperor Saga was the son of Emperor Kanmuwho responsible for establishing the capital of Japan in Kyoto.To the west of Seiryo-ji you will come to the grounds of Hokyo-in Temple and Enri-an Temple before approaching Nison'in Temple. At this point you should be standing at a fork in the road. Taking the right fork you can enjoy the ultimate in tofu cuisine at the many restaurants that crowdthe narrow street. A little further along numerous souvenir shops and small museums can be found. "Memory Museum" houses over 3000 toys dating from the Edo Period (17-19 C.) to the present (admission \300),while "Kyoto's Japanese Folk Dolls Museum" boasts a collection of 200,000 dolls as well as its quaint little Tea House in the garden in the backyard (admission \1000). There is also "Hadaka-no-Taisho Memorial Museum", with an interestingly name meaning "Naked General Memorial Museum". The name is taken from the title of a television program documenting the life of YAMASHITA Kiyoshi, an artist and 'free spirit' who spent most of his life travelling around the country creating many paintings and writing about his experiences and impressions of life (admission \700). In the same neighborhood several traditional private houses with thatched or tiled roofs still remain. The Town Preservation Center was opened in the area seven years ago to enhance peoples understanding of the areas historical importance. The center itself has been restored from an old merchant's house that dates back to the early 19th century. There, visitors can enjoy the peaceful atmosphere over a cup of Japanese tea provided free of charge. In front of the center Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple stands atop a small hill. On the opposite side Mt. Mandara forms the scenic back-drop to the area. The mountain is also the site of the huge "Torii gate-shaped" fire lit during the famous Daimon-ji Bonfire Festival. The festival is held on the 16th of August to 'send off' the spirits of the ancestors who are believed to return during the O'bon period. There are many other temples and attractions around the Saga area that are worth visiting. Why not consider a relaxing yet quicker means of cruising around Saga: bicycling. Whatever you decide, I'm sure you'll enjoy yourself.
M. Amanuma
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| Seiryo-ji Temple: Something Special Inside Since its foundation almost a thousand years ago, Seiryo-ji Temple (΄Α) has been better known as "Saga Shakado"i΅γίή°jfor the principal image of Buddha, or Shakyamuni, placed in its main hall. Now designated as a national treasure, the statue is considered one of the three most sacred images of Buddha that exist in Japan. The original of this statue, which represents the figure of Buddha as an Indian prince, was supposedly carved in India when Buddha was 37 years old. Made from an aromatic tree, it has many notable features. For example, Buddha's hair was braided into three thick strands and wound around his head to resemble something like a miniature Christmas tree. While many other statues of Buddha display a short hairstyle, this particular style of the original statue is thought to be the most accurate representation based on historical records.The Buddha's body is covered by a cloak with only his feet protruding from the bottom, for concealment of the body was thought to prevent temptation from 'worldly desires'. Another distinctive feature is the series of palm lines that run across Buddha's hand, indicating good fortune and success. Around 5 B.C., on the backs of courageous monks this statue of Buddha was carried from India, across the Himalayan Mountains, to a safe haven in China. The statue had been the focus of a bitter struggle between Buddhist and opposing religious groups. In danger of destruction, it was secretly brought to China where it soon became an object of worship among the Chinese people. In 987 Abbot Chonen, a Japanese priest who had stayed in China to study Buddhism, brought back a replica of the statue to Japan and founded Seiryo-ji Temple, where the replica statue has remained till the present day. In 1953 examinations of the statue uncovered several silk objects shaped like a human heart and intestines hidden inside in the body. Historians believe that these objects had remained untouched by humans for almost 1000 years. It is thought the imitation organs were made by five Chinese nuns and put in the body before it was brought to Japan. Interestingly, the discovery of the imitation organs highlighted the fact that advanced autopsy was being conducted in China over 1000 years ago. Hence, the principal image of Buddha in Seiryo-ji Temple has become famous as a rare and precious "living image of Buddha".
K. Kimura
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| Rent-A-Cycle Bicycles are enjoyable not to mention healthy form of transport. If you are just visiting Kyoto or for some other reason don't have a bicycle, you might like to consider renting one. The following places provide bicycle rental in the Saga area. Make sure to take along either your foreign resident's registration card or passport. Saga-eki Rent-A-Cycle: JR Saga-eki mae, Tel: 881-4898, Open: 9:00 - 17:00 (must rent by 15:00) \500 / 2 hrs. - thereafter \200 / per hr., \1000 / day Keihan Rent-A-Cycle: Arashiyama Bus Stop, Tel: 861-1656, Open: 9:00 - 17:00 \600 / 4 hrs., \800 / day Arashiyama Ladies Hotel: Tenryu-ji mae, Arashiyama Tel: 882-0955, Open: 8:00 - 16:00 \630 / 3 hrs., \1,050 / day Arashiyama Rent-A-Cycle: Hankyu Arashiyama-eki mae, Tel: 882-1112 Open: 9:00 - 17:00 \800 / day
Y. Matsuda
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| Dolls' Festival Hina-matsuri Festival (ΠΘΥθ), or Dolls' (Girls') Festival, is observed on the 3rd of March every year to wish for the health, happiness and sound growth of young girls. As part of the festivity, elaborately dressed dolls called "hina-ningyo" are arranged on a five or seven step stand set up in your house. Peach blossoms are often found beside the doll arrangement for decoration. A special meal is prepared by the family to celebrate the event, along with plenty of sweets and shirozake (rice malt sake). By early January hina-ningyo dolls pack the shelves of the many doll shops around Kyoto. As the festival approaches, the local markets get into the festive mood by selling shirozake and hishimochi (diamond shaped rice cakes colored pink, green and white), and playing the hina-matsuri songs. There are two main opinions concerning the roots of the festival. Popular belief is that the festival is linked to purification rituals introduced from China during the 8th century. Adopted by court nobles, these rituals involved expelling impurities and evil spirits from a person and transferring them to a "hitokata", a wooden doll representing the figure of a human. The doll was then set adrift on a stream or the sea to cleanse the person's spirit. Those dolls later came to be used as toys among the children of the nobles. The other opinion asserted by some academics claims that the purification ritual has no relation to the origin of the festival. They believe that the festival simply grew out of the popular pastime of playing with dolls, which was started by the children of nobles during the Heian Period (9-12 C.). In the famous novel, "The Tale of Genji", which deals with the life of court nobles during the Heian Period, you can find several scenes depicting children playing with small dolls, or "hihina asobi" (with 'hi' meaning small). Interestingly, the novel also documents dolls floating down a stream in ritual, thus lending the same credibility to the opinion as the former. Whichever is true, the appearance of finely clothed "sitting dolls" (suwari-bina) during the Muromachi Period (14-16 C.) was a landmark in doll making. The suwari-bina literally 'stood apart' from the previous more coarsely adorned dolls, the "standing dolls" (tachi-bina). With civil wars dominating throughout most of the period, doll making was generally limited to individual craftsman, and paper dolls appeared instead. However, with the end of fighting around the turn of the century (17 C.), handicrafts rapidly spread throughout Japan, and doll making flourished. From the 18th century to the present day, extravagant doll sets representing the emperor and empress, court ladies and musicians, as well miniature sets of drawers and dressers have been made by skilled doll artisans. For a long time, however, the expensive doll sets were out of reach of the general public, with ownership limited to the wealthy. It was not until the end of the Edo Period (17-19 C.) when more affordable "Tsuchi-bina" (clay dolls) were produced that "hihina-asobi" became a popular pastime for all children. To celebrate the widespread practice, "Hina-matsuri" became an official event. Afterwards, it has been a tradition for grandparents to give a hina-ningyo doll set to their granddaughters on their first Hina-maturi. This is a special expression of affection from grandparents to granddaughter. Regardless of price or quality, such a gift will undoubtedly provide fond memories of the festival for the girl and the whole family.
I. Hashimoto
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