Japanese Sweets in Kyoto

July: Gyojamochi (行者餅) and Doyomochi (土用餅)

"These pictures are used by permission from http://www.wanogakkou.com".

The Gion Matsuri symbolizes the coming of summer for Kyotoites. In July, the ancient capital city throws off its typically reserved manner in favor of a livelier festival mood. In this hottest month of the year, Japanese sweets, especially the ones in Kyoto, feature cool-looking designs such as water, rivers and ice houses. In addition to these typical summer sweets, Kyoto sells a unique rice cake in July called gyojamochi (行者餅), literally meaning "a mountain monk's rice cake". 　　Gyojamochi is made from two small rice cakes coated with miso paste that has been sweetened and flavored with sansho (山椒:Japanese pepper), then wrapped in a crepe made from rice flour. The name of the sweet is derived from its rectangular shape which resembles the costume worn by the monks who are under ascetic discipline in the mountains. Gyojamochi are said to be good for one's health, and are made and sold as "spiritual sweets". Gyojamochi are only eaten on July 16th, the Yoiyama (宵山) holiday, the day before the famous Yamaboko Junko festival (山鉾巡行: the parade of Yama and Hoko floats). Gyojamochi have been made for nearly two centuries by the Kashiwaya Mitsusada Confectionary (柏屋光貞), one of Kyoto's longest standing sweet shops, located south of Higashiyama-Yasui intersection (東山安井交差点). For many years, the shop would open a special branch store on July 16th, near one of the Yama floats called En-no-Gyoja-Yama (役行者山). Many Yoiyama festival goers could purchase gyojamochi at this shop during the festival. Unfortunately, they discontinued this branch two years ago, due to nearby large-scale construction. Since then, the gyojamochi are sold at the main shop only. 　　There is another kind of rice cake called doyomochi (土用餅), named after the hottest period of summer known as doyo (土用). Unlike gyojamochi, doyomochi is a fairly common sweet made from mochi rice cakes coated with sweet azuki-bean paste. It is known as ankoromochi (あんころもち) during the cooler parts of the year, and doyomochi when it is made and sold during the hottest period of summer. 　　Doyomochi are traditionally considered to be good for one's health because azuki beans are believed to drive away evil spirits. Azuki beans also contain lots of fiber for regularity. Incidentally, "kabayaki" (かば焼き: broiled eel) which is available year round, is also heavily promoted on doyo-no-ushi (土用の丑: the hottest day of the summer) with sales slogans such as "Why not eat nutritious broiled eel in order to prevent summer heat exhaustion?" The hottest part of summer begins around July 20th and lasts for 18 days. This year's doyo-no-ushi falls on July 27th. 　　Take care to stay healthy this summer by drinking lots of water and eating some nutritious wagashi !

H . Fukuoka

Gyojamochi can be purchased at Kashiwaya Mitsusada 　　 (closed on Sundays and national holidays) 　　 Reservations for gyojamochi are accepted from July 1st through July 10th 　　 Date for pick-up of the goods: July 16th (at the shop), from 　　 8: 00 a.m. until late at night 　　 The price per Gyojamochi: \330 (tax not included) 　　 Inquiries: 075-561-2263

Kyoto Summer Walking Tour

As everyone knows, summer in Kyoto is extremely hot and humid. This is just another part of the Kyoto experience! This month I would like to show you a walking course along Shijo Dori (四条通) in central Kyoto.

This course starts at the Hankyu Shijo Omiya Station (阪急四条大宮駅). Starting from the station, walk south along Omiya Dori (大宮通) and turn right (west) at the first corner. Walk along Ayanokoji Dori (綾小路通) for about 10 minutes, then left on Bojo Dori (坊城通). After about three minutes, you will arrive at the gate of Mibudera (壬生寺) temple, built in 991 A.D. Mibudera is best known for Mibu Kyogen (壬生狂言) traditional Japanese plays, which are performed each year in spring and autumn. 　　After viewing Mibu Dera, return to Shijo Omiya Station and go east on Shijo Dori (四条通) on the south side of the street. Cross Horikawa Dori (堀川通), continue walking for about five minutes and you will find the Buriki No Omocha Hakubutsukan(ブリキのおもちゃ博物館: The Tin Toy Museum) near the Shijo Horikawa bus stop. This museum has one of the largest collections of tin toys in Japan. Seeing these artistic, heart-warming toys will surely inspire feelings of nostalgia if you ever played with them as a child. 　　 On the opposite side of Shijo Dori, there is a wagashi sweets shop (和菓子屋) called Kameya Yoshinaga (亀屋良長). In the corner of the shop, there is a well that draws water from the Samegai (醒ガ井) spring, the street's namesake. The owner of the wagashi shop dug this well in order to use the fresh, clear water to make wagashi. Why not sample the delicious seasonal sweets while you are there? 　　From here, return to the corner of Shijo Horikawa (四条堀川), and go north along the Horikawa Dori (堀川通) on the west side of the street. After 20 minutes of walking (quite a distance- you can take the bus if you feel tired), turn left at the fire station at the intersection of Horikawa and Oike (堀川御池). Go west along Oike Dori, (御池通) cross three or four small streets, and you will see a small woodsy area on the right side of the street. This garden is called Shinsenen (神泉苑), and was created around the same time as Kyo no Miyako (京の都: Kyoto city center). Before Heian Kyo (平安京) was built in 794 A.D., there was a very large swamp which spread from south of Gosho Imperial Palace (御所) all the way to Mukaijima (向島), in southern Fushimi-Ku(伏見区). The Miyako was built over the swamp, and the Shinsenen garden was created as a place for the Tenno (天皇 Emperor) to enjoy his leisure time. At the time it was built, there was a large pond in the garden, therefore the street that runs in front of the Shinsenen is named Oike Dori (御池通: "Lake Street"). 　　 Modern-day Shinsenen is only a tenth of its original size, but stands as one of the oldest ruins in Japan. In the year 863 A.D., the emperor ordered that sixty-six hoko spears (矛:halberds) be erected here in order to pray for an end to a plague that had stricken the country. As time went on, the halberds were turned into decorative floats with wheels attached, and this tradition evolved into the modern day Gion Matsuri (祇園祭) Festival. In modern times, the Gion Matsuri (July 17th) marks the coming of summer after the rainy season for people living in Kyoto. 　　 If you're interested in further exploring the history of Kyoto (and it's before 4pm), why not take a look at Nijo Castle(二条城)? It was built in 1603 by the first Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (初代将軍、徳川家康 1542-1616) as a Shogun's villa and lookout for Gosho Imperial Palace. It is famous for its beautiful art and squeaking "nightingale floors". This year, Nijo Castle turns 400 years old! 　　Whether sunny or rainy, have a good walk!

-R. Hakamada

Kyoto Interview Series

Life in Kyoto( LIK ) recently interviewed Justin Giffin, born in Sevenoaks, a small town near London. He studied Spanish and economics at Kingston University, near London, then spent two years studying in Barcelona and Bilbao in Spain. He came to Japan on the JET Programme in 1989 to experience life in a completely different culture. 　　 When he finished the JET Programme in 1995, he started teaching at Otani High School in Kyoto. Recently he started a mobile phone rental business for foreign visitors. In addition to his phone business, he teaches part time at a high school, and is working on starting a wedding planning business as well. 　　Why did you choose Kyoto as your base city? 　　I first came to Japan on the JET program, so I was sent to Kyoto by the organizers. It wasn't my first choice, but I was glad that they chose Kyoto for me, because I was told it was a good place to be. 　　Why do you like Kyoto? 　　 There are two reasons. Firstly, the city is not too big (you can get around easily by bicycle) and not too small (there are lots of interesting restaurants and bars). Secondly, I like the greenery in and around Kyoto, as well as the rivers and the mountains. 　　 When you first came to Japan, you taught English at a junior high school. What do you think of Japanese teachers and students? 　　I think that one big problem with Japanese teachers of English is that the teaching profession tends not to attract people who can speak English well. The students are generally quite studious, but very shy about speaking English. 　　 What do you think about English education at schools in Japan? 　　 I could write a book to answer this question! Like most foreigners, I think that there is too much emphasis on analyzing English grammar, and not enough attention paid to real life skills such as speaking, listening, reading books and writing compositions. However, this flaw in the English education system is a perk for gaijin in Japan, since it gives them jobs in English conversation schools. 　　 When you worked as an English teacher you received a steady salary. Why did you decide to change careers and start your own business? 　　I still teach a few hours a week at a high-school, partly for the money (nice hourly rate!) and partly to get out of the house and meet different people. However, it is very difficult to have a real career teaching English in Japan since very few jobs have any prospects of promotion, salary increases, pension, etc. Therefore, I decided to start my own business. 　　 How do you advertise your business? Would you explain how your service works? 　　Mainly, I advertise on the internet, and I also have pamphlets in some hotels in Kansai. I also directly approach bigger companies that have people come over from abroad. The system is fairly simple: when I receive an order, I send the phone out to the customer's hotel. When they finish using the phone, they send it back in a special envelope provided with the phone. I calculate the cost of their calls, add that to the rental charge, then bill their credit card. How many customers use your mobile phone rental service? About 100 per month. 　　Are they mostly tourists or residents in Kyoto? 　　Most of the people are visiting on business, and most of my business comes from customers in Tokyo. I would guess that most of the customers in Kyoto are tourists, but sometimes there are big conferences here like the recent World Water Forum, and a lot of businesspeople in Kyoto will rent phones then. Because my business is for short-term rentals only (from a few days to a couple of months), very few of my customers are actual residents. 　　Are there any differences between mobile phones in foreign countries and in Japan? What are the good and bad points of Japanese mobile phones? 　　The phones look quite different in different countries. For example, Korean mobile phones are all folding-type and even smaller than the Japanese ones (and virtually all silver colored!) In the UK the folding-type is quite new. The Japanese phones tend to have the latest features (such as cameras) before those in other countries, but the call rates 　　What types of mobile phones do you think will be created in future? 　　I guess that there will be more integration of the internet and mobile phones. Possibly within a few years we will be able to use mobile phones like a walkman, and download songs from the internet (that's just a guess!) 　　Many technical goods like computers, mobile phones, cars, and television have become a part of our daily lives. Do you think there are any downsides to the constant use of technology? 　　One downside is decreased writing ability. In England, teachers are complaining that the writing level is going down due to people sending text messages via mobile phone. There is a similar problem in Japan. University students' kanji ability is said to be decreasing, because they have fewer chances to write letters, and prefer to use personal computers instead. High school students do not have this problem since they are taught kanji at school. 　　You are currently involved with multiple businesses, including working part time as a teacher as well as running a mobile phone business and wedding business. How do you cope with stress in your free time? 　　In the summertime, I like to go swimming and have barbecues at Hozukyo and Lake Biwa. In the winter season I like drinking atsukan (hot sake). On a daily basis, I enjoy cycling riding along the Kamo River and hiking on the mountain road 　　What is your favorite cafe or restaurant in Kyoto? There are so many to chose from! At the moment I like Merry Island best (on the east side of Kiyamachi, between Oike and Nijo). 　　What advice would you give to non-Japanese people who are thinking of starting a business in Japan? Each business idea is different, so it is hard to give general comments. I would say that it is very important to get the advice of as many people as possible before you start. 　　 Do you have any future plans for your phone business, or for starting new businesses? For the phone business I plan to advertise more. For my next new business, I'm planning a restaurant wedding ceremony business. Wedding ceremonies at hotels are very expensive in Japan. Therefore, many young couples prefer cheaper weddings at restaurants that have a good atmosphere. I'm currently working for five different wedding companies as a pastor, but I'm planning on creating my own wedding ceremony company to hold weddings at restaurants. Fifty percent of Japanese couples prefer western style weddings, but the numbers are decreasing, as the number of young people goes down and down (due to the declining birth rate).So wedding ceremony businesses are facing economic hardship as a result. Other industries are affected by the decreasing birth rate as well. For example, private schools are forced to hire part time teachers instead of full time teachers because the diminishing numbers of students means they can't afford to pay full time salaries. 　　You have lived in Kyoto for over ten years. Have you noticed any changes in both the people and the city of Kyoto? 　　 It is difficult for me to comment about the people, but I have seen some very fine old buildings knocked down, such as the old courthouse on Marutamachi. 　　 What do you see for the future of Kyoto, from both your professional and personal point of view? 　　 Professionally, I don't have any comments. In the past several years new condominiums have been built here and there, and the city scenery has changed. Personally I would hope that the city government tries harder to preserve old buildings and ensure that new ones are not too ugly. 　　 As a citizen of Kyoto, I want Kyoto to be a charming place for people from all over the world to visit. What do you think what is the essential point for preserving Kyoto as a beautiful city? 　　 For many parts of the city it is too late, as the old buildings have already been taken down. It would seem that most Kyoto residents are not interested in the preservation of old buildings. Most of the buildings built during the post-war era are really ugly, but here and there you can see some nice newer buildings built with a traditional influence. It is a pity that there are not more of them. *　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　*　* 　　 I agree with Mr. Giffin. It's really a pity that these fine old buildings and houses are knocked down so easily in favor of and making ugly new buildings. I wonder where the spirit of being particular about making good things has gone. It's a matter of fact that the city has changed to become more modernized over the years. I hope that Kyoto can continue to be a city where people can feel at home and enjoy the historical atmosphere that surrounds them. A. Tara Designed by S. Marui (HP Volunteer)