SAKANA
SAKANA, SAKANA, SAKANA! 　　If you visit the fish corner in a supermarket or on the basement floor of a department store, you will find a great variety of fresh fish in the form of fillets, sashimi, and sushi. If you visit the Nishiki Market Street(錦市場) or some other traditional market, you will find many fishmongers selling a wide variety of fresh whole fish and other types of seafood. At most of these places, you can ask them to cut the fish to your preferred specifications. You will even find many kinds of prepared fish (salt-grilled, teriyaki, simmered, deep-fried, etc.) which can make a convenient dinner for people who don't wish to cook. 　　The development of the national "cold chain" fresh food transportation system has allowed us to enjoy a wide variety of fresh seafood in modern times, even in a land- locked area like Kyoto. Therefore, we can now enjoy seafood in addition to fresh vegetables as part of our diet. 　　As you may know, the Japanese are highly aware of the seasonality (shun, 旬) of foods, and this sensibility is particularly keen when it comes to seafood. The taste of a certain fish improves during particular season. However, this principle cannot be applied to the large numbers of imported or cultivated fish on the market. (See below for a table showing the seasonalities of some popular types of fish.) 　　Seasonality and seafood go hand in hand. It is interesting to note that the kanji (漢字) for the scomber fish, sawara, is 鰆, a combination of the radical for fish (魚、sakana) on the left with spring (春、haru) on the right. Cod, a famous winter fish (tara, 鱈), is literally the snow (雪、yuki) fish. Many people in Kansai area eagerly await the winter season for a chance to eat zuwai-gani (ずわい蟹, also known as matsuba-gani) a special species of crab caught in the Japan Sea during the winter season only. 　　The Japanese usually divide saltwater fish into two categories: fish with white meat, and blue-backed fish. The former variety has lighter and more delicate flavor than the latter, which has a rich and fatty taste. White meat fish tend to be more expensive, and are generally preferred by the older generation, whereas younger people tend to like blue-backed fish. Of course, this is a matter of individual preference. In addition to these two varieties, there are some popular saltwater eels and other types of long fish. Of these, hamo (鱧、pike conger) and anago (穴子、conger eel) are very popular in the Kansai area. 　　Freshwater fish are not divided into these sorts of categories. Kyotoites are generally very fond of freshwater fish, because we have Lake Biwako (琵琶湖) nearby. Of these, the ayu（sweetfish, 鮎）is considered to have the most delicate taste whereas the freshwater eel (unagi, 鰻) , has a rich taste and a high nutritional value. 　　There are many other delicious types of seafood that can be found in Kyoto. Particularly popular are oysters, clams, prawns, crab, octopus, cuttlefish, cod roe as well as dried fish, which are used to make many of the dishes eaten on a daily basis. For example, octopus (tako 蛸) is used to make takoyaki(蛸焼き) (grilled octopus dumpling), which is a very popular snack in Osaka. As for dried fish, iriko/niboshi (dried anchovies) and kezuri-bushi (shavings of dried bonito fish) are the key ingredients for making dashi, Japanese stock. 　　Strictly speaking, cooking methods will vary depending on each fish and it would be impossible to describe them in detail in this article. Some raw fish dishes such as sashimi and sushi, and certain grilled fish such as unagi-kabayaki (eel teriyaki) and hamo tsukeyaki (pike-conger teriyaki), are such difficult recipes that even the most skilled Japanese housewives will give up making them. It would be better to buy these dishes pre-made at the market. 　　However, I'd like to introduce you to some fundamental ways of cooking fish in a simplified way, what might be called "Bachelor-style Japanese cooking": 　　1) Salt-grilled fish: Salt the whole fish, such as aji, sanma and iwashi, or use a fillet of buri, sake or amadai. Grill the fish in a fish cooker or broiler until the skin turns golden brown. Some drops of yuzu or lemon juice will add a delicate flavor to the fish. 　　2) Teriyaki fish, also called Tsukeyaki: Mix shoyu (soy sauce) and mirin in a 1:1 ratio and bring this mixture to a boil. Marinate a fillet of a fish such as sawara, buri or tai, in this sauce for 20-30 minutes, then grill. You can make a quick and simple teriyaki by cooking the fish in oiled frying pan, then adding the sauce after the fish has cooked sufficiently. 　　3) Simmered fish: Mix water, mirin, sugar and shoyu (soy sauce) in a 4:1:1:2 ratio and bring the mixture to a boil. Put this sauce, fish fillets such as saba, karei and tai, and a bit of sliced ginger in a pan and simmer for usually 10-20 minutes under loose fitting cover. T. FUJII 　THE SAKANA DICTIONARY 　Table 1. Seasonality of some saltwater fish Spring Sawara 鰆 scomber Tai, Madai 鯛、真鯛 sea bream Summer Hamo 鱧 pike-conger Autumn Saba 鯖 pacific mackerel Sanma 秋刀魚 mackerel pike Sake 鮭 salmon Winter Tara 鱈 cod Yellowtail 鰤 buri Zuwai-gani ずわい蟹 zuwai-crab Kaki 牡蠣 oyster 　Table 2. Various saltwater fish White-Meat Fish Tai 鯛 sea bream Amadai 甘鯛 tilefish Hirame 平目 flounder, halibut Karei 鰈 flatfish, sole Tara 鱈 cod Blue-Backed Fish Maguro 鮪 tuna Katsuo 鰹 bonito Saba 鯖 pacific mackerel Aji 鯵 horse mackerel Sawara 鰆 scomber Sanma 秋刀魚 mackerel pike Iwashi 鰯 sardine, anchovy Sake 鮭 salmon Eels Anago 穴子 conger-eel Hamo 鱧 pike-conger 　Table 3. Some other types of seafood and freshwater fish Shellfish Hamaguri 蛤 clam Asari 浅蜊 baby clam Hotate-gai 帆立貝 scallop Kaki 牡蠣 oyster Awabi 鮑 abalone Sazae さざえ whelk Ebi 蝦 prawn, shrimp Ise-ebi 伊勢海老 spiny lobster Kani 蟹 crab Molluscs Ika 烏賊 cuttle-fish Tako 蛸 octopus Fish Eggs and Roes Uni 雲丹 sea-urchin egg Suziko 筋子 salmon roe Ikura イクラ salmon roe Kazunoko 数の子 herring roe Tarako 鱈子 cod roe Dried Fish Iriko, 炒り子 dried anchovy Niboshi 煮干 dried anchovy Maruboshi 丸干し dried sardine Katsuo-bushi 鰹節 processed and dried bonito Kezuri-bushi 削り節 flakes of Katsuo-bushi Freshwater Fish Koi 鯉 carp Funa 鮒 crucian carp Iwana 岩魚 char Masu 鱒 trout Ayu 鮎 trout ayu Unagi 鰻 eel T. FUJII
Sanpo In Spring
Spring has arrived! The cherry blossoms are long gone, but many other flowers are in bloom, so why not enjoy the warm weather? This month I would like to recommend a walking course that will show you Kyoto's historical landscape in spring. 　　This course starts at JR Kyoto Station (京都駅) and will take about three hours to complete. Starting from the Station, go north along Karasuma Street (烏丸通) and walk for about six minutes. You will find a big temple called Higashi Honganji (東本願寺). This temple is called "Ohigashisan" by locals (お東さん, "The Eastern One" ). It is the head temple of the Jodoshinshu Otaniha(浄土真宗大谷派) sect of "Pure Land Buddhism". You can view the temple's two main buildings free of charge. 　　The first building is called the Goeido (御影堂), and contains the statue of Shinran Shonin (親鸞聖), the founder of the Jodoshinshu (浄土真宗) buddhism. The other building is called the Amidado (阿弥陀堂), and features a statue of Amida Nyorai (阿弥陀如来), or Buddha. If you cross the street, you can get a close view of a fountain in the shape of a lotus flower that is a very beautiful example of metalwork. 　　After viewing the temple, cross Karasuma Street (烏丸通) towards the East (the opposite side of the temple), turn left, go straight to the first corner, turn right and go straight to the end of the street. You will arrive at Shoseien Garden (渉成園), called "Kikokutei" (枳殻邸) in olden times. Shoseien is famous for its beautiful garden, which was created in 1653 and has maintained the same style up until the present. It is said that Hikaru Genji (光源氏), the hero of Murasaki Shikibu's "The Tale of Genji" (源氏物語) lived in this area for a while during the Heian Period (平安時代:794-1192 AD). 　　After viewing Shoseien, return to Karasuma Dori, cross the street and go north (the opposite direction of Kyoto Station) until you reach the end of Higashihonganji. Turn left, go straight along the temple's ditch, cross one street with traffic signal,and continue to go straight until just before the next big street. You will reach the "Fuzoku Hakubutsukan" (風俗博物館), located on the the fifth floor of the Izutsu building (井筒ビル) on the right hand side of the street. This museum shows many scenes from the "Tale of Genji" using amazing artifacts and costumes from the Heian Period. 　　After about three more minutes of walking, you will find Nishi Honganji Temple (西本願寺), the head temple of the rival Jodoshinshu Honganjiha sect (浄土真宗本願寺派). This temple is nicknamed "Onissan" (お西さん, "The Western One"). Similar to Higashihonganji, there is a "Goeido" hall (御影堂) and an "Amidado" hall (阿弥陀堂). 　　Continuing from Nishi Honganji, walk west along Shinhanayacho Street (新花屋町通：it runs along the north side of the Nishihonganji temple), cross Omiya Street (大宮通), cross the street with a traffic signal and you will reach the Shimabara Omon (島原大門), the entrance of a former yukaku area(遊郭: pleasure quarters) called Shimabara (島原). In addition to the gateway, many large old buildings still remain in this area. Pass through the gate, go straight and you will find the Japanese-style Sumiya (角屋) building on the left corner. Sumiya (角屋) is the remains of a famous Ageya (揚屋, expensive restaurant) from the Edo Period (江戸時代:1600-1867). 　　In addition to this beautiful old building, you can view some excellent works of art at the "Sumiya Motenashinobunka Bijutsukan" (角屋もてなしの文化美術館) Museum. If you still have the energy to continue walking, go South along the street in front of Sumiya. You will arrive at Umekoji Park (梅小路公園) after about 10 minutes. You can view some old trains such as "Kikansha Thomas" (機関車トーマス), or you can also just sit and relax on the lawn. After you have taken some time to rest, you may return to JR Kyoto Station by bus or, if you prefer, on foot. 　　During just three hours, you can experienced a stream of history starting from 794 AD leading up until modern times! Have a nice day! - R. Hakamada
Japanese Sweets In Kyoto
May: Chimaki and Kashiwamochi 　　When the beautiful month of May approaches, many Japanese people look forward to two special sweets with feelings of nostalgia. These sweets are chimaki (ちまき: rice dumplings wrapped in iris or bamboo leaves) and kashiwamochi (柏餅: Rice dumplings stuffed with sweet bean jam and wrapped in kashiwa, oak leaves). Amongst an array of aesthetically pleasing Japanese sweets, these two may look plain and unsophisticated, but they are loved for their simplicity and natural deliciousness. 　　Chimaki and kashiwamochi are special sweets served during the "Boy's Festival" on May 5th. This day is now established as the National Children's Day・holiday, but it was originally known as Tango-no-Sekku (端午の節). Tango means the first "horse" day of the month (according to the Chinese calender) and sekku indicates a festival day marking the changing of the seasons. In olden times, the Imperial Court and commoners alike celebrated this day through the chinese customs of picking herbs and medicinal grasses, taking a bath steeped in herbs, and hanging iris leaves under the roof to keep evil spirits away. 　　During the Kamakura Period (鎌倉時代:1185-1333) the samurai warrior class disciplined themselves through the practice of martial arts. The code of samurai is known as shobu(尚武 ), which is a homonym for the shobu flower (菖蒲:Iris), which blooms in May. The samurai class decided celebrate May 5th as a day to pray for their sons to become healthy, strong and successful. This custom spread throughout the public and became popular. 　　 In modern times, families with boys will hoist koinobori (鯉のぼり : Carp-shaped streamers) outside their homes. Japanese families hope that their sons will become as strong as the carp that swim up the rapids. To celebrate "Boys Day" warrior dolls and miniature armor are displayed with the home, with offerings of kashiwamochi and chimaki placed before them. 　　Kashiwamochi is more popular in Kanto (関東-Eastern Japan) than in Kansai (関西-Western Japan), where chimaki is preferred. Kashiwa has strong ties with the samurai tradition, since the sweet is said to be shaped like a kabuto( 兜 : Samurai's helmet). Oak trees don't lose their leaves until new ones start budding. Therefore, oaks are regarded as a symbol of succession within the family line, and it is appropriate that oak leaves are used to wrap a sweet eaten on "Boy's Day". 　　Chimaki has its origins during the Warring States Period (戦国時代:475 BC - 221 BC) in ancient China. A renowned poet once drowned himself in deep water after his land had been ruined by the war. People cast bundles of chimaki into the water to console his soul. As a result chimaki are believed to have special powers that drive away evil spirits. 　　In Kyoto City , there is a confectionery called "Kawabata Doki" (川端道喜) that is celebrated for its superior-quality chimaki. They are patronized by the Imperial Household and have kept the same family recipe for 500 years. Their chimaki are said to be perfect in taste, color and appearance. -M. Matsushita Designed by S. Marui (HP Volunteer)