Kyoto Architecture: A Coexistence of Tradition and Innovation

The first of January 2001 marks a particularly symbolic day. It is the beginning of a New Year, a New Century, and a New Millennium. Braving cold winter weather, swarms of people will flock to Kyoto from other prefectures on this day to make their first pilgrimage of the New Year to a famous shrine or temple. These people come to Kyoto with a longing for things traditional. Strangely, however, the first place that welcomes their arrival is the futuristic structure of the JR Kyoto Station.
While some people believe that its modern design is incongruous with Kyoto, most locals are becoming accustomed to its appearance and before long it will be thought of as just another example of change.
In contrast to Kyoto's image of "old Japan", Kyoto has a history of embracing the new. This is illustrated, for example, by the fact that the first water power station and streetcar system in Japan were developed here in Kyoto during the Meiji period (–¾Ž¡Žž‘ã:1868-1912). Kyoto people's open-minded approach toward new things, whilst preserving important traditional elements, were not evident only during the Meiji Revolution (–¾Ž¡ˆÛ�V). In fact this willingness of introducing and incorporating new ideas, especially with regard to architecture, has been cultivated over the city's long history.
From an historical viewpoint, architecture in Japan has been highly influenced by Chinese design, although climatic and lifestyle differences were clearly reflected in the way housing was traditionally built. As summer in most of Japan is very hot and humid, traditional houses were raised somewhat to allow air to circulate beneath and around them. Wooden constructions were considered ideal, cool in summer, warm in winter and flexible when subjected to earthquakes. The natural beauty of wood was also highly valued, and thus it was generally left exposed rather than painted over. Unique styles of architecture developed early on, particularly here in Kyoto.
During the Heian period (794-1192), homes built for nobles employed a style called shinden-zukuri (�Q“a‘¢), in which the main buildings and sleeping quarters stood in the center with other rooms connected by passage ways. This style gradually developed during the Kamakura (Š™‘qŽž‘ã: 1192-1333) and Muromachi (Žº’¬Žž‘ã:1338-1579) periods and was later known as the shoin-zukuri (�‘‰@‘¢) style. The major change was the addition of the zashiki (�À•~) or drawing room. Its special features, zasikikazari�i�À•~�ü‚è, include a tokonoma (�°ŠÔ) or alcove - a small stage where ornaments such as a hanging scroll or painting were hung on the wall, and a flower arrangement or other objects were placed on the lower shelf. Next to this was chigaidana (ˆá‚¢’I), a shelf for the exhibition of books or items used in tea ceremony. (the windows above are called what?) Below this was a wide low-lying ledge called tsukeshoin (•t�‘‰@), used as a writing desk, called dashifumizukue (�o•¶Š÷). Directly opposite to this was the chodaikamae (’ ‘ä�\‚¦) or entrance to the bedroom, sealed by four sliding doors called fusuma (‰¦).This entrance is also known as mushagakushi�i•�ŽÒ‰B‚µ�jused as an emergency exist for (from) samurai waiting in the next room. From the Edo period (1603-1868), shoin-zukuri was simplified and became the common style of housing for samurai. With the end of civil war and the arrival of long awaited peace by the 1640's, architectural style continued to change. Shoin-zukuri was gradually replaced by a style called sukiya-fu-shoinzukuri or sukiya-zukuri (�”Šñ‰®‘¢). Tasteful cottages were built with the atmosphere of a tearoom -- characterized by delicate sensibility and unornamented simplicity. Katura-rikyu (Œj—£‹{), a famous villa and garden in Nishikyo-ku is a good example of the style. Its simply designed architecture elevated a new sense of harmony with space and surroundings.
Keeping these facts in mind, let's visit a few temples and shrines, and observe some of the city's modern buildings. Beginning in the Sanjo (ŽO�ð) area, you will notice there are many plain modern office buildings. Between Sanjo (ŽO�ð’Ê) and Karasuma Street (‰GŠÛ’Ê), however, there are quite a few stone and red brick buildings dating from the Meiji to the early Showa periods. For instance, Nakagyo Post Office (1902), The Museum of Kyoto Annex (1906), Nihon-Seimei-Hoken - Kyoto-Sanjo Building (1914), Sacra (1916), Kyoto Damashin (1890), and the Kyoto Branch of Mainichi Newspaper (1928). Around these large modern creations you also find traditional Japanese buildings. This interesting blend of historical and modern architecture adds charm to the urban landscape of this neighborhood.
Proceeding toward the east in the direction of Sanjo Bridge (ŽO�ð‘å‹´) you will find two simple concrete buildings, Time's I (1984) and Time's‡U(1991), both designed by world-famous architect, ANDO Tadao (ˆÀ“¡’‰—Y). These buildings are outstanding examples of concrete architecture, especially the latter, mysteriously combining the ambience of old and new Kyoto. Turn right at Kiyamachi Street (–؉®’¬’Ê) and walk along Takase-River (�‚�£�ì) until you reach Shijo Street (Žl�ð’Ê). To your left on the opposite side of the road you will be struck by an unusual Spanish style building called Toka-Saikan (“Œ‰Ø�ØŠÙ). Its beautiful stain-glass windows are reminiscent of an old church.
To view architecture designed and built during the bubble period of 1980's, Kitayama Street (–kŽR’Ê) is the place to visit. Along this street you will find several ANDO Tadao designs, including B-Lock Kitayama (1988) and The Garden of Fine Arts, Kyoto (1994). As one of the most recently developed areas in Kyoto, there are several creative structures such as Week (1986), Trees (1986), Syntax (1990) and the Kyoto Concert Hall (1995). Of course the streetscape is a far cry from the traditional image of a typical Kyoto neighborhood. Compared to the machiya style town of Gion, the designs appear somewhat futuristic and possibly a little too impudent. Therefore, unlike most other districts, walking down this street one cannot feel any continuity with the past, just disappointment at the loss of precious traditional architecture. The picturesque backdrop of mountains seems out of place.
Now, let's return to the 'heart' of Kyoto, Gion. First stop on the agenda is the popular Yasaka Shrine (”ª�â�_ŽÐ), probably the most crowded shrine on New Year's day. After paying your respects, make your way around to the back and you will spot Maruyama Park (ŠÛŽRŒö‰€) and the gorgeous building, Chorakukan (’·ŠyŠÙ:1909). Previously the villa of MURAI Kichibei (‘ºˆä ‹g•º‰q), a wealthy businessman in the Meiji period, Chorakukan is now used as a lady's hotel and teahouse. It features several exquisitely decorated rooms in an assortment of styles, including Baroque, Chinese, Shoin and Rococo. Taking a stroll to the south you will find Gionkaku (‹_‰€Št:1927), a marvelous building resembling the floats used in the Gion-Maturi Festival.
Around Chorakukan and Gionkaku there are also many famous temples like Chioin-Temple (’m‰¶‰@) and Kodaiji Temple (�‚‘䎛). If you wander down a narrow back street in this area you are likely to stumble upon a row of machiya huddled together, just like a scene from the distant past. And yet, the co-existence of new and old seems natural. I think it actually accentuates Kyoto's charm.
As we enter a new century, it is an ideal time to reflect on our past and consider our future. Those privileged with planning new architecture in Kyoto should utilize designs that compliment and enhance the historical and natural environment. Think of the area and its people; consider its long history and culture, then design away.
A. Tara

Mini Promenade
Around Kiyomizu Temple

The area surrounding Kiyomizu Temple (�´�…Ž›) has always been, and still is one of the most popular sites with both tourists and townspeople. While drastic changes have taken place in other areas, this area appears almost unchanged. Well, that was until recently. This hottest on-the-spot report will tell you about a couple of new spots as well as some interesting traditional places along the way.
Seiryuen (Blue Dragon Garden)
Opened recently, Seiryuen (�—´‰‘) is a Japanese style shopping mall situated north of Kiyomizu Temple. It is gaining popularity thanks to its specialty stores and pleasant atmosphere.
Up until just 6 months ago, Kyoto Sakaguchi (‹ž“s�âŒû), an old Japanese restaurant, set alone on a large site with a beautiful garden. Management wanted to make the store more prosperous, maintaining the fine view of the buildings and the garden they inherited from the former owners. After much planning, seven new stores were built and now share the site with Kyoto Sakaguchi. The new mall is named after the deity “Blue Dragon�E(�—´) which is believed to watch over the east side of Kyoto, where the mall is located. The shops consist of a cafe, a fragrant incense shop, a traditional Kyoto pickles shop, and a tasty noodle bar among others. All operate out of old machiya style townhouses (’¬‰Æ), gasshozukuri (�‡�¶‘¢‚è), traditional wooden houses with steep rafter roofs, and old warehouses or kura (‘ ), blending with the traditional surroundings of the area.
Entering the inner grounds you will find a beautiful garden occupying more than half of the site (see photo to the left). It was designed by famous gardener OGAWA Jihei (�¬�쎡•º‰q) during the Meiji period. There are also three teahouses and a waterfall-viewing waiting room arranged in the garden. In the Momoyama period (1573-1603), this site was the reputed location of a retreat lived in by KINOSITA Choshoshi (–؉º’·š‚Žq), famous waka poet, and nephew-in-law of TOYOTOMI Hideyoshi (–L�b�G‹g). It is definitely worth a visit!
Inquiries: Seiryu-en Tel/Fax: 075-525-2080

Kiyomizu Sannenzaka Museum
(�´�…ŽO”N�â”ü�pŠÙ)
This is a new museum located next to Seiryuen (see photo below). The exhibits include metalwork, cloisonne, makie lacquerware and Satsuma pottery, the works of both prominent and lesser-known artists from the end of the Edo period (�]ŒËŽž‘ã:1603 -1867) to the Meiji period (–¾Ž¡Žž‘ã:1868-1912).
According to director Mr. MURATA, metalwork, cloisonne and lacquerware originated in countries along the Silk Road. Introduced to Japan toward the end of the 6th century, an understanding of these artistic techniques gradually developed and later original Japanese styles were established. During the Edo period there were many excellent artists honored with patronage by the Tokugawa Shogunate (government), feudal lords and wealthy merchants. However, from the Meiji period onwards Japanese lifestyle and artistic taste rapidly westernized, and demand for traditional art techniques began to decline. In contrast, an appreciation for such art works abroad led to a large outflow of works to foreign collectors and museums. The museum hopes to revive peoples�Einterest and appreciation in traditional Japanese artistic techniques.
Open: 10:00 ~ 17:00 (everyday including public holidays)
Fee: \500, \300 (students)
Access: 10-minute walk from City bus stop Kiyomizuzaka
Inquiries: 532-4270

Shichimiya (Žµ–¡‰Æ)
Just a stone’s throw away from Kiyomizu temple you will find Shichimiya, an old spice specialty store. Established nearly 350 years ago on the present site, Shichimiya is regarded as a key landmark in the area. Their main product is shichimi, a mixture of seven kinds of spices including red pepper, Japanese pepper, black sesame seeds, white sesame seeds, perilla leaves, green laver and hemp seeds. Shichimi's natural flavor is loved, especially by Kyotoites, and used as a spicy condiment for hot noodles, soups, pickles and so on.
Inquiries: 075-551-0738
Historical Pathways
There are many famous historical pathways winding around the Kyomizu temple area, including Ninenzaka, also called Nineizaka (“ñ”N�â / “ñ”J�â), Sannenzaka, also called Sanneizaka (ŽO”N�â / ŽY”J�â) and Chawanzaka (’ƒ˜q�â). On both sides of these paths traditional stores can be found jammed together, selling everything from Kiyomizu-yaki pottery (�´�…�Ä) to typical Japanese foods and goods.
Also, you should not miss the walk along Ishibe-koji (�Ε»�¬˜H) and Ichinen-zaka (ˆê”O�â). Ichinen-zaka means, "to make a wish" and if you do so while walking along this path it is said to come true. Both paths are paved with large stones that were originally used on the old streetcar tracks around Kyoto. It would be no exaggeration to say that this one of the most fascinating and beautiful areas in Kyoto. Japanese style inns and tasteful tearooms queue along either side, partly hidden behind neatly cut hedges, black wooden or bamboo fences. Creels hang in place of mailboxes and old fashion street lamps stand silently, creating a graceful and quaint atmosphere. In fact, these paths have often appeared in movies, and if you'e lucky, you may happen to meet a interesting "character" from one of the many stories.
M. Matsushita �• Y. Matsuda