NEW YEAR FESTIVALS

Hokai-ji Temple
Hadaka Odori, literally 'naked dance', is without doubt a festival truly unique to Japan.
Men of all ages dance together, holding their hands in the air, then putting them together
to pray, their bare backs bumping together while they repeatedly chant "Chorai, Chorai"
(I do believe! I do believe!). The men only wear a 'fundoshi', a traditional underwear made of
a long piece of narrow cloth, which goes around their loin. Interestingly, after the festival
has finished, the fundoshi are washed and used by pregnant women as a belly-cloth. This is quite
a popular ritual, as according to legend, doing so will enable a smooth trouble free birth. Visitors
to this festival can also enjoy a cup of Kasujiru (a soup consisting of sake lees, vegetables and fish)
served at Hokai-ji Temple

Date: January 14
Location: Hokai-ji Temple
Access: Take JR Nara line to Rokujizo, then Keihan bus to Ishida, and walk 15min from there.
Admission: Free
Inquiries: 075-571-0024
C. Okajima

Hatsu Ebisu
Hatsu-Ebisu Festival is held in worship of the patron god of merchants, Ebisu, at Ebisu Shrine
between the 8th and 10th of January. As one of the beloved Fuku Jin (seven lucky gods), many
people, especially local merchants, venture to the shrine to pray for a prosperous New Year.
Unique to Kyoto is a marching parade in the Gion area that features real life geisha. The geisha
appear like perfect dolls; exquisitely dressed in the finest kimono with their distinctive white faces,
it is indeed a sight worth braving the chilly weather to see!
Date: 8 Jan. (Sat.) - 10 Jan. (Mon.)
Location: Ebisu Shrine
Address: Higashiyama-ku, Yamato Oji Shijo Sagaru 4 chome Komatsu-cho 2
Access: Kyoto City Bus: Shijo Keihan mae bus stop
Keihan Railway: Shijo station, Hankyu Railway: Kawaramachi station

A. Tara

Hatsu-tora at Kurama-dera Temple
Old Japanese calendars, instead of using the seven days of the week, used twelve different animals
to symbolize each day. So, in a sense, today's 'seven day' week, was once a 'twelve day' period.
Hatsu-Tora, 'first' day of the 'tiger', falls on the 9th of January this year. In the early hours of
the 9th, a big holy fire will be lighted to invoke world peace and happiness for the people.
Date: 8 Jan. (Sat.) 21:00 Buddhist Service
Date: 9 Jan. (Sun.) 3:00 am Holy fire
Access: Kurama line of Keifuku-densha from Demachiyanagi to Kurama Station
Admission: Free
Inquiries: 741-2003

Hatsu Tenjin & Hatsu Kobo
Large flea markets taking place in January include: Hatsu Tenjin at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine and
Hatsu Kobo at Toji Temple. There are many stalls at both markets selling things such as pottery,
antiques, used clothes, handcrafts and so on. Both flea markets take place monthly, however, since
it will be the first market of the New Year, both will be much bigger than usual.
Date: 21 Jan. (Fri.) Hatsu Kobo
Access: Toji temple - Kintetsu line Toji station
Inquiries: Toji Temple 671‐9612
Date: 25 Jan. (Tue.) Hatsu Tenjin
Access: Kitano Tenmangu - Kyoto City bus #203, #50, #8
Inquiries: Kitano tenmangu 461- 0005

Tsushiya（通し矢）
The first shooting of an arrow in the New Year is performed at the west side of the main hall of
Sanjo-sangendo.（三十三間堂） About 1,500 participants shot arrows to a target from a distance
of 60m (33 gen in the traditional Japanese distance counter). Since the arrows appear to fly
through the hall, the ceremony is called Tsushiya (passing arrows).

January 15 (Sat.) 9:00 AM-
Location: Get off city bus at Sanjo-sangendo-mae.
Admission: free
Inquiries: 075-561-0467

Ode to Joy II
Beethoven's Symphony No. 9
Did you attend a performance of Dai-ku, 'Beethoven's Symphony No. 9', in December? If you did,
I trust you enjoyed yourself. As I mentioned in the article, "Ode to Joy - Beethoven's Symphony
No. 9", that featured in the December issue of 'Life in Kyoto', I would like to tell you about my personal
experience of singing in a Dai-ku symphony. I will be pleased if this is helpful to those who are interested,
and perhaps some of you will challenge yourselves, and one day stand upon the stage as a part of a Dai-ku
symphony.
It all began when I noticed a poster that invited people to join a Dai-ku chorus. It said 'Welcome beginners!
You need no audition.' I thought it would be so exciting to sing on the large stage in the Kyoto Kaikan main
hall to the accompaniment of the Kyoto Symphony Orchestra. So, I decided to join. Generally speaking,
you have to practice Dai-ku for about six months before you are ready to sing in concert. So, to perform
in December you need to begin lessons in July. By telling you about it now, you will have plenty of time to
think about it before a decision is required.
Each chorus generally has it's own group of directors instructing lessons; conducting and teaching
you how to sing. To start off our first lesson, our director read the words of the song in German,
and we repeated after him. During the lesson, we wrote down Japanese kana alongside the German
so as to remember the reading. Since this was the first time for me to learn German, I found both
the reading and pronunciation, particularly the 'r' sound, very difficult. After learning the first few
phrases, the director then began to teach us how to sing. At that time, I decided to participate in
the soprano part because I thought that I had a rather high pitched voice. However, I soon discovered
that the soprano part involves singing a series of very high notes, which, if drawn on a staff notation,
appear well above the top line. At the beginning of the lesson, my voice sounded more like a cackle
than a soprano. Scary…I thought that I should probably change from soprano to alto, a tone level down.
But I couldn't do it. I had already become attached to the beautiful melodies of the soprano part, and
I expected that with further voice training my voice would surely improve.
In no time at all two hours had flown by, and my first Dai-ku lesson was over. After the lesson, I talked
with several members and I found that many of them were also beginners. They unanimously expressed
what I was thinking. In spite of the obstacles faced in learning to sing in German, the music was special,
and worth all the hard work it was going to take. I was surprised. Our group had already begun to develop
an affinity only two hours after meeting each other for the very first time.
Regular lessons were held once a week, and an additional lesson was held for beginners. Unlike
the regular lesson, the beginners' lesson was made up of only 20 participants. If you had a question
or there was a part that you could not sing very well, there was an opportunity to ask one of
the directors for help. But sometimes beginners hesitate to sing out loud, and this was the case
at out first lesson. Naturally, we were all feeling a little nervous. The director walked into the room
and said, " Is there anybody who sings the soprano part?" Although many of us thought we could,
you could have heard a pin drop! Everyone was dead silent. After the anonymity of the large regular
classes, we realized we couldn't really sing at all! The additional lessons proved valuable in helping
us progress, as of course there was no where to hide. Each person's true ability soon came to light,
and so we all had to work hard to improve as individuals and as a group.
In October, we had a two-day singing camp in a seminar house located on the out skirts of Kyoto City.
This gave us the chance to immerse ourselves in Dai-ku, free from the concerns of housework,
and without bothering our neighbors. Singing Dai-ku at home requires both courage and confidence,
especially given the close proximity of neighboring houses. The camp was also a terrific opportunity
to catch up lessons, particularly for those who often missed regular lessons because of a busy schedule.
Importantly, it gave everyone a chance to get to know each other and make friends. In my case,
I most impressed by a story told by the director about his personal experience in the symphony.
When the director was young man, he lost confidence in his abilities as a musician. He was considering
going back to his hometown in the country. But, one day when he was in a coffee shop contemplating
what he was going to do, he heard the melody of the first movement of Dai-ku. While listening to it,
he was near brought to tears by its beauty. After the music had finished, he was determined to
continue his challenge.
After finishing the camp, I felt that I had made a lot of progress, and the melodies of the music were
constantly in my thoughts, whether I was awake or asleep. I was completely addicted to the music.
I soon reached the stage where I could sing without a score with few mistakes, and could understand
the meaning of each word. Whenever I sang phrases like ' All men become brothers wherever
your gentle wing reposes', or ' Be embraced,' my spirits were lifted, and I was deeply moved.
It became clear our chorus had developed a strong bond, as our harmony significantly improved and
flowed like one rhythmic voice.
In November, we had a lesson given by the conductor who was to conduct for us at our concert.
For ordinarily people like me, taking a professional conductor's lesson does not occur every day of
the week. I got tense at first, but while concentrating on his baton, all my negative feelings disappeared.
The conductor demanded that we sing exactly how the score was written. He showed no willingness
to compromise even though we were only an amateur chorus. I respected him for this, and I was happy
when he said, 'bravo'! I also thought that if he were not satisfied with our singing, in a way it would
discredit our directors and put all their hard work to shame. I was determined not to let this happen.
The day of the concert arrived at last. At the start, I found that my voice sounded hollow, just nerves
I figured. I comforted myself with the thought that I wouldn't standout either way. Certainly not when
you consider there was over 200 chorus members in all, plus an orchestra consisting of 100 musicians
all performing together. There was an audience of more than 1500 people, and it was my very first
appearance on stage. 'Calm down, relax' I said to myself. During the performance I noticed the conductor
often sang together with us. I thought that he was the most reliable person in a whole world. This put
me at ease and I sang with gusto till the end.
When we received a warm applause, my mind was flooded with many memories; the first lesson on
that hot summers day, the challenging beginner's lessons, our director's secret story and all the hard work
we went through to be standing here on this stage. At that point the director came on stage, he smiled,
his eyes and eyebrows made a shape like a double fermata. He often made this joke about himself. To us,
nothing was better than to see his smile. I was as happy as I could possible be. I wanted to give a kiss to
every person in the world to show how great I felt. But, you got to remember that its not possible to attain
this feeling of ecstasy, this natural high, if you do not participate seriously in the symphony. You can join
a chorus and you can sing at a concert, but you will not be satisfied if you don't give it one hundred percent.
Furthermore, I don't believe you deserve the opportunity of performing with professional musicians if you
do not practice as hard as you can.
After the concert, I had several other opportunities to perform in a chorus. Each time, professional musicians,
directors, conductors, soloists, and orchestra - all led us skillfully. They put up with our uneasiness, impatience,
and mistakes, and helped make us into the best chorus that they could. Any concert performed by an amateur
chorus would not succeed without their passion, strong leadership and good faith. I thank the people involved
in administering the chorus for all their efforts. By accomplishing something special together with others, I was
able understand the true meaning of 'ode to joy'. I believe this is the spirit of the symphony.

K. Kimura

Setsubun Festivals

Setsubun (節分) Festivals take place at various shrines and temples around Japan to welcome the advent of spring.
One of the festival highlights is the shouting and bean throwing ritual enacted to drive away cavorting devil
spirits and bring good fortune.

Mibu kyogen
Mibu kyogen is a Buddhist Noh Pantomime that is only performed at Mibu-dera（壬生寺）Temple during the
Buddhist Invocation Mass (大念佛会). Since the 11th Century, the ingenuous movements and comical gestures
of Mibu-kyogen have been used to convey Buddhist messages and philosophy to the common people.
Mibu kyogen is affectionately referred to as "Gan den den", as it plays to the accompaniment of a Sho gong,
a Taiko Drum, and a flute. It enjoys great popularity, for which I came to appreciate after going to a see
a performance. At the time I visited it was snowing. Light snow flakes fluttered down on and around me,
making for a most impressive and unforgettably picturesque scene. The Mibu Kyogen entitled "setsubun"
will be held as follows.
Date: Feb. 2 (Wed.) and Feb. 3 (Thu.) On the hour: 13:00 - 20:00
Admission: Free
Access: Take Kyoto City Bus #26, Sanjo-Kawaramachi City Bus #11 or 27
Get off at Shijo-Bojo bus stop, walk south for 3 min.
Take Hankyu Railway and get off at Shijo-Omiya Station, walk southwest.
Inquiries: Mibu-dera Tel: (075) 841-3381

N. Suematsu

Okame Setubun Sai
Built in 1227 in the Kamakura Period (1192-1333), the main hall of Senbon Shakado （千本釈迦堂）remains
the oldest structure in the city area. Inside is a sculpture of a seated figure of Buddha, noted for
the typical design of the period.
Why is Setsubun at this temple called "Okame Setsubun"? The temple has a very interesting story.
A master carpenter, while building the main hall cut one of the pillars too short and fell into an awful predicament.
But thanks to his wife's clever suggestion, he was able to resolve the difficulty and eventually complete
the hall successfully. However, due the shame she felt as a result of her husband's misfortune,
Okame committed suicide before the hall was completed. At the framework raising ceremony,
the carpenter praised his wife, putting a mask of her face atop a pole in honor of her loyalty and
good fortune with which he was blessed.
This tradition has been handed down through the centuries. Some events associated with Okame
Setsubun are as follows.
Place: In the main hall and in front of the big statue of Okame, located in the vicinity.
Time: 3 Feb (Thu.) 15:00 Service of exorcism, Noh pantomime by Shigeyama School, Traditional dance
and music. 16:00 Bean scattering, 17:00 The lighting of a holy fire
Why don't you visit Senbon Shakado at the beginning of spring and bring good fortune to yourself?
Okame equals "good fortune", so good luck!
Location: Senbon Shakado (Daihonji Temple)
Address: Mizomae-cho, Rokken-cho Nishiiru, Itsutsuji-dori, Kamigyo-ku. Just east of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine
Inquiries: 461-5973

Y. Matsuda

Onihoraku at Rozan-ji
Rozan-ji Temple (廬山寺) was established by Priest Gansan Daishi Ryogen in 938. Onihoraku (demon dance)
is based on an old tale about this priest who supposedly drove away evil demons with his special dharmic
powers. It is performed on a stage set up in front of Rozanji Temple's main hall.
At the sound of a drum and the blowing of a conch shell, three demons appear on stage and begin dancing.
The red demon carries a sword and a torch, the blue demon waves a hatchet, while the black demons
swing a big mallet. They are attacked by the priest with arrows, holy fire and throwing beans and are
eventually driven away. It's a very interesting and amusing play to watch.
Date: 3 Feb. (Thu.) 15:00
Access: City Bus "Furitsu Idai Byoinmae"
Inquiries: 231-0355

M. Matsushita

Yoshida-jinja Shrine
2 Feb. (Wed.) 18:00 Tsuina-shiki: three demons - red, blue and yellow, symbols of misfortune, are scared away.
3 Feb. (Thu.) 23:00 Karo-sai: Old talismans that have been returned to the shrine are piled together
to around 5 meters in height in the shrine garden. This 'holy fire' is then set alight to scare away
the evil demons. There are also 800 street stalls lining the approach to the shrine on both the 2nd
and 3rd of February.
Access: City Bus #31, #65, #201, #206 Kyodai-seimon-mae
Admission: Free
Inquiries: 771-3788

M. Amanuma

Cafe Grill Bonjour

As the weather turns from cold to super chilly this month, you may be thinking about home.
More specifically, good old fashion home cooked food like how mom used to make it (that is if she's part
French!). Well, if you have a yearning for healthy yet filling food to keep you running on all four cylinders
this winter, look no further than Cafe Grill Bonjour. I recommend this particular yoshokuya-san
(western style eatery) for its wide range of dishes and healthy menu. All dishes are cooked in olive oil,
the ingredients of which are chemical and artificial additive free. The chef, who is professionally trained
in Italian and French style cooking, produces delicious low calorie dishes by selectively using low fat ingredients.
The base soup for the beef curry and stew for instance, is made from an unusual combination of fish, shellfish,
tomatoes and saffron. The most popular dish on the menu is the traditional hamburger steak made from 90
per cent lean beef. This means the flavor is retained while keeping the calories to a minimum. All of
the dishes are affordable, generally ranging between \700 and \1,000. Bon appetite!
Open: Mon. - Fri. 11:00 〜 15:00, 18:00 〜 22:00
Sat. 12:00 〜 15:00 (closed public holidays and every 2nd Sat.)
Address: Kyoto-shi, Nakagyo-ku Karasuma Rokkaku-dori
Inquiries: (075) 221- 6569

A. Tara